When the Schlumbergera blooms. Schlumbergera - the good old Christmas, or Decembrist. Photo gallery: a huge variety of Decembrist varieties

I bet everyone has seen this wonderful plant at home or at a party, but who would have thought that it had such a complicated name: Schlumbergera. In Russia, another name has taken root - the Decembrist, but he is better known under the name: “Some kind of cactus” (Joke).

Why Decembrist? Because the flowering period falls in December, just before the new year, it pleases us with bright colors.

Zygocactus Schlumbergera, otherwise called the Decembrist, belongs to forest cacti, but it does not have thorns, it grows in nature on the trunks of tropical trees, therefore it loves moist woody soil. It grows well in apartments on the windowsill, but you need to be careful - the plant is tropical and does not like extreme conditions, which our country is rich in.

Where are you from Schlumbergera

Let's start with the origin of the Decembrist. Where did it come from, this unusual plant that blooms in spite of the season?

Schlumbergera (in Latin - Schlumbergera) belongs to the genus of epiphytic forest cacti, whose homeland is southeast Brazil, mountain rainforests. Synonyms are also such names of the Decembrist as Zygocactus (Zygocactus) and Zygocereus (Zygocereus).

• For some it will seem strange why cacti suddenly grow in the rainy tropics? At an altitude of 600-1500 m above sea level, they settle in the form of compact bushes in cracks in the bark, among the trunks of numerous vines and grow firmly into them, feeding on decaying organic matter.
• Broken off pieces of segments quickly form aerial roots and, catching them on a support, give rise to new specimens. Warm tropical rains periodically briefly moisten them, flowing down, and most of the time the plants live in fairly dry conditions under the canopy of a dense forest.
• Flowering Schlumbergera at home looks simply enchanting and occurs in late spring - early summer. Weird, why do we have a Decembrist blooms in winter?

Yes, simply because its habitat is in the southern hemisphere, the Brazilian summer falls on our winter. Plants have genetic memory and, despite the change in geographical latitudes, continue to live according to the cycle established by nature. We have snow and cold, and in the homeland of the Decembrist, a blessed summer is coming ...

Ripsalidopsis and Schlumbergera or does the Decembrist bloom in spring

Sometimes Decembrist owners claim that their pet blooms in March-April, showing photographs as evidence. If you look closely at the plant in the image, it most often turns out that instead of Schlumbergera in a pot, another epiphytic cactus, ripsalidopsis, which looks very much like a Decembrist, has blossomed its bright red flowers. It is also called the Easter star, since it is in April that the peak of its flowering is observed.

Although among the Decembrists now you can find more than one variety. As a rule, on the windowsills we bloom:

• Schlumbergera truncated (truncatus) and
• another hybrid is Schlumbergera buckley or bucklei.

Look at the photo, it is noticeable that the plants differ in the shape of the stem segments. In ripsalidopsis, their edges are smoothed and rounded, in Sh. buckley they are more pronounced, and in Sh. truncated they are sharply serrated.

And in this photo, we note the difference not only in the appearance of the segments, but also in the structure of the flower.

On the left - ripsalidopsis, in the center - S. truncated, on the right - S. bouclei.

• If in both species of Schlumbergera there is a bilateral symmetry of the flower, it is slightly truncated, then in ripsalidopsis the inflorescence is radially symmetrical and looks like a pointed star.
• Summarizing the above, we can draw the following conclusion: in November - January, Schlumbergera bouclei (the so-called "grandmother's Decembrist") blooms, in December-February it passes the baton to Schlumbergera truncated, and in spring we admire the flowering of ripsalidopsis.
• Someone will object: how to evaluate the flowering of zygocactus, which we observe in garden centers throughout the year, including at the height of summer? Very simple: it is the result of modern greenhouse equipment, in which you can create any conditions for forcing and lush flowering at the right time of the year.

Plant features

All plants have their own characteristics. The main feature of the Decembrist is that it blooms when other flowers are resting. But he also has other qualities that distinguish him from all the other inhabitants of your windowsill.

• First of all, the Decembrist is uncomfortable on the southern and western window sills, since intense lighting can cause the end segments of the plant's shoots to die off.
• Secondly, in the summer, the Decembrist, like no other indoor plant, needs fresh air: a shaded place on a balcony, loggia, or terrace will do.
• Thirdly, in the summer, the Decembrist loves to take a shower, but if this is not possible, then at least spray it from time to time.
• Fourth, with good care, a long-lived Decembrist can congratulate you with his bouquet on the New Year for about 15-20 years.
• Fifth, the Decembrist flower is just one of those capricious plants that cannot be disturbed at the time of budding - rearranged from place to place and even turn the pot with the plant.
• At sixth, the Decembrist can be grown as an ordinary plant, or as an ampelous one. You will gradually learn about the rest of the features in the following sections of the article.

Decembrist care at home

How to care for the Decembrist.

The agricultural technology of the Decembrist zygocactus is directly opposite to the agricultural technology of the cacti themselves, their requirements for the most part coincide with the conditions for growing ordinary, deciduous houseplants. If you can forget to water the cactus, and it will not suffer much from this, then the Decembrist needs regular watering with settled, non-cold water and high air humidity, which is achieved by regular spraying or placing a Decembrist pot on a pallet with wet pebbles. Cacti perfectly tolerate the sun, and the Decembrist suffers from direct sunlight and requires shading.

• As for the air temperature, the Decembrist is not capricious in this matter.
• Since March, the Decembrist needs a monthly top dressing complex fertilizer for flowers, but the dose should be taken half as much as suggested by the manufacturers.
• In the summer, when the intensive growth of the stems begins, you need to feed the plant twice a month, and stop feeding from September. The plant will not interfere with preventive treatment with fungicides.

How to cut the Decembrist.

Decembrist pruning is carried out in June, and the excess part of the shoot is not cut off, but unscrewed by hand, giving the plant a beautiful shape, shortening the shoots that grow incorrectly. Plants formed in this way have an attractive appearance and bloom more abundantly.

How to transplant a Decembrist.

The Decembrist is transplanted after flowering, at the very end of February. Young plants are transplanted annually, adults - once every 4-5 years.

• Choose a wide and low pot for a plant, since the Decembrist's root system is superficial. The drainage layer should fill the pot by a third.
• As for the soil, store-bought soil for cacti is suitable, but you can make the soil yourself: mix one part of soddy soil and sand and two parts of leafy soil, add crushed coal for disinfection, and brick chips or expanded clay for better water permeability.
• The soil for the Decembrist should be slightly acidic.

Reproduction of the Decembrist

Answer to the question "How to propagate the Decembrist?" very simple: vegetatively, by cuttings. 2-3 extreme “links” are unscrewed from the shoot, dried for several days, then planted in moist soil and covered with a glass jar or plastic bottle to create a greenhouse effect. The container is placed in the shade and regularly ventilated.

The optimum temperature for rooting Decembrist cuttings is 15-20 ºC. The Christmas tree is often propagated at home immediately after its pruning, since as a result of the formation of the bush, ready-made material for grafting remains.

Formation of the plant by pruning

Pruning of the plant is done in early summer in order to create a beautiful shape of the bush. Extra segments on the shoots are not cut off, but simply unscrewed by hand. This procedure will create a beautiful and lush bush with densely strewn with flowers.

Pests and diseases of the Decembrist

Enemies of the Decembrist.

Fungal diseases and insects annoy the Decembrist. Fusarium, phytium and phytophthora are fungal diseases, the pathogens of which penetrate the plant from contaminated soil, and the root neck of the plant primarily suffers from them. As a result, the flower becomes pale, gray, loses segments and withers in moist soil. Fusarium is treated with fungicides, and phytium and late blight - with Maxim, Topaz, Vitaros.

• If the plant is covered with a rusty coating, then, most likely, it was struck by a spider mite - small dotted insects of brown, yellow or reddish color that appear on the plant in conditions of insufficient air humidity.
• The preparations "Aktellik", "Fitoverm" or "Neoron" will help get rid of the tick.
• Whitish lumps that suddenly appeared between the shoots, similar to cotton wool, are traces of the vital activity of mealybugs, which can be neutralized with the help of Aktara.

Why is the Decembrist withering.

The Decembrist withers, as we have already found out, if he fell ill with late blight or phytium. Another cause of leaf lethargy can be root disease. If the plant has lost its stability, and its trunk sways, then it is quite possible that the roots of the plant died from hypothermia as a result of watering with cold water in a cool room, or, conversely, from the fact that the flowerpot overheated in the sun. Could burn the roots of the Decembrist and too strong a concentration of fertilizers. In this case, the plant must be immediately transplanted into another substrate, because the old one is saturated with concentrated fertilizer, which continues to destroy the roots.

Why the Decembrist does not bloom.

The Decembrist must feel when it is time to bloom. To do this, he needs to provide a full rest period: from the end of September to the end of November, reduce watering and stop feeding the plant by placing it in an unheated room. Now remember how to make the Decembrist bloom: move the flower to a bright, warm place and start watering, thereby helping the Decembrist to wake up. Rotate the plant around its axis to achieve uniform illumination on all sides of the flower.

Once buds start to form, make sure the substrate in the pot doesn't dry out and that no one else is moving or turning your flower, or the plant may panic and drop buds. If you follow these rules, your Decembrist will definitely bloom.

Why the Decembrist falls.

Sometimes, it would seem, for absolutely no reason, the leaves of the Decembrist fall off. But nothing just happens. Let's try to figure it out. It is known that the cause of "leaf fall" can be a spider mite, and you already know how to get rid of it. If the pest is not found by you, then the likely cause may be a lack of nutrients (irregular top dressing, depleted substrate). Try to spray the Decembrist once or twice with a solution of fertilizers for epiphytic cacti or apply them under the root, and you will see how quickly the plant will restore its strength. If that doesn't work, change the soil.

The reason for the fall of the end segments may be too dry air or stress transferred by the plant - a sharp temperature drop, a change in the environment, a draft, or an ill-timed transplant.

Like all indoor plants, the Decembrist sometimes gets sick. Under the diseases of the inhabitants of domestic green spaces, all deviations in the appearance and vital activity of the plant are meant.
What harms the Decembrist?

• fungal diseases
• Harmful insects
• Wrong watering
• Feeding not applied on time

Fungal infections

Often, after transplanting a plant, fungal infections are introduced into the new soil: phytiums, phytophthora or fusariums. The leaves become pale and lethargic, even with intensive watering. In this case, it is necessary to treat the flower with the appropriate preparation and transplant it into a new, disinfected soil.

• When affected by a spider mite, the Decembrist is covered with rusty stains, these are scanty insects, brownish, yellowish and even dark red. Infection of the plant occurs as a result of very dry indoor air.
• White small lumps on the plant indicate the appearance of such a pest as mealy black. It, like the spider mite, is disposed of by spraying with special means.
• The death of the root system of the plant also belongs to the diseases of the Decembrist flower. Hanging branches lose energy, become lethargic and lifeless, and the bush itself moves easily in the ground, which means that the roots have died off.
• This happens if an overheated plant is watered with cold water or supercooled, as well as with an overdose of fertilizers. This state of the flower is saved by transplanting into a new soil.

Pathogenic conditions also include the non-release of color by the Decembrist. This happens due to violation of feeding periods, as well as due to excessive watering in October and November. During these months, it is unnecessary to fertilize the plant, and the dose of watering should be reduced as much as possible, only from the beginning of December, the flower must be saturated with moisture as much as possible. And by the end of December it will be possible to get the long-awaited flowering.
gardensadovod.com

When the Decembrist blooms, begin to gradually reduce watering by placing the plant in a cool place where it will stand until the end of March, resting after flowering. At the end of March, the Decembrist begins the vegetative period, so move the flower to its usual place, gradually increase watering and start fertilizing the plant.

floristics.info

How to achieve lush flowering Schlumbergera

To make Schlumbergera bloom truly fabulous, you need to take into account its natural features.

The general care of the Decembrist directly depends on the phase of the natural cycle that the plant is currently experiencing. There are four periods of development in Schlumberger:

• vegetation (March - September);
• rest period (September - November);
• flowering (November-January);
• the second dormant period (February - March).

Care from March to September

The period of rapid growth begins at the zygocactus in the spring, it builds up segments and responds well to top dressing with complex fertilizers. Top dressing is selected with a minimum nitrogen content to avoid root rot.

If you take it out for a summer “walk” in the garden, then the Decembrist will really like it. However, you need to allocate a place in the scattered shade and do not forget to water the bush.

Care from September to November

From September, the plant begins to prepare for flowering and lays flower buds (however, outwardly this happens unnoticed by the observer). Perhaps this period is the most responsible for the grower. If you make a mistake, you will lose the flowering of a spectacular plant.

• As already noted, during this period, watering is reduced, the air temperature is reduced.
• However, you don’t have to do this on purpose, because it gets cool outside.
• Do not take away a pot of Decembrist from the garden or from the balcony until there is a threat of frost.
• Lowering the temperature to +3 C is not critical for the plant, on the contrary, it stimulates the budding.

The optimal place for keeping during the dormant period is an unheated loggia, where the Decembrist can stay until November. Watering is rare. Usually, after such a shake, the flowering of Schlumbergera is very plentiful and long.

Leave from November to January

In early November, the plant is brought into the room, and soon it is covered with buds. At this time, the bush is watered with fertilizers for flowering (with a high content of phosphorus and potassium), as well as 1-2 times with a solution of calcium nitrate.

Care from February to March

After flowering, the plant is shaped for the splendor of the bush and more abundant flowering later. To do this, unscrew (it is unscrewed, and not cut off, and not cut off) some segments. Soon new shoots will grow here, on which buds will bloom.

Possible errors in care

Let's name some of the most common problems that arise when caring for a Schlumbergera.

• The segments turn red. The cactus stood in the cold. Redness is a protective reaction to hypothermia. Move the plant to a warm place, and it will soon turn green again.
• A lot of sluggish and wrinkled leaves appeared. The reasons can be exactly the opposite: underfilling and overflowing. Underfilling is easier to deal with - spill the pot well and spray the Schlumbergera with warm water. But it is more difficult to deal with excessive watering. The roots of the plant are examined, they, as a rule, are rotten. Again, this is quite fixable - the roots are unscrewed and the bush is re-rooted in fresh loose soil.
• All the buds crumbled. This phenomenon is associated with stress: they changed the location of the pot, forgot to water the Decembrist in time, and made the plant draft.
• The Decembrist does not bloom There are many reasons, it is worth reviewing the irrigation regime, shade it or, conversely, move the pot to the light. In addition, if the Schlumbergera grows in a cramped pot, it is necessary to transplant it into a suitable soil in terms of volume. But the main reason for failure is ignoring the dormant period, keeping the plant in “warmth and bliss” at this moment.

myflo.ru

When and how should the Decembrist be transplanted?

The Decembrist, like many other indoor plants, requires a transplant. The Decembrist is transplanted into a fertile soil mixture for cacti. It can be prepared at home by mixing peat, leafy soil, sand and brick chips. The bottom of the pot is filled with drainage by a third. A flower transplant is made in a wide and not deep flowerpot. It is strictly forbidden to transplant zygocactus during the flowering period. Young bushes are transplanted every year, adult plants - once every three years. Transplantation is a necessary procedure that stimulates the active growth of the Christmas tree and promotes abundant flowering.

Optimize your pet's care and he will thank you with his colorful blooming appearance.

This brightly flowering plant is just a feast for the eyes, but to achieve such success, it needs timely and competent care at home. The most important condition is the preparation of the flower for the flowering period. Some useful tips for those who want to grow this houseplant at home:

• To achieve abundant flowering, the Decembrist is recommended to be planted in a narrow flowerpot.
• If the flower is put in a cool room, this will extend the period of its flowering.
• Sudden temperature changes are undesirable for a Christmas tree during flowering.
• Also at this time, the plant is not recommended to be moved, rotated, otherwise the flower buds will simply fall off.
• In winter, the Decembrist needs to provide good lighting using artificial light.
• For a blooming child, it is necessary to provide a temperature of 15-18 degrees.
• At the end of summer, the flower is no longer fertilized, sprayed and watering is reduced.
• Acquired flowers often drop flower buds. This is a standard process for adapting a plant to new conditions.

Location

Zygocactus is the best grow on oriental windowsills. It is not recommended to put a pot with a plant near the southern windows, because from direct sunlight the segments of its stems will begin to turn yellow and crumble. If the Decembrist cannot provide diffused light, it must be shaded.

• During the formation of buds and flowering, the pot with the plant should not be turned and rearranged. Otherwise, the flower will drop its buds.
• In summer, zygocactus can be grown on a balcony, loggia or in the garden. In this case, he needs to choose a well-lit place protected from the wind and direct sunlight.
• The Decembrist begins to bloom at the end of November. After flowering, it must be placed in a cool room until spring.

Temperature regime

Comfortable temperature for the growth and flowering of zygocactus fluctuates between 18-25C. During active growth and flowering, the plant requires a temperature of + 18C to + 20C. In order for the plant to gain strength before flowering, it must be kept at a temperature in the range of 12-16C.

Soil for flattering cacti

In nature, Schlumbergers are epiphytes growing in crevices in the bark of trees. Therefore, the soil for planting a Decembrist at home should be as loose as possible, moisture and breathable.

A proven recipe for soil composition for zygocactus: leafy ground + coarse sand in a ratio of 1: 1. As an additive to this mixture, it is recommended to use a small amount of charcoal and peat.

• Schlumbergera transplantation is carried out every 1-2 years. They do this not immediately after flowering, but during the resumption of growth (the beginning of the vegetative period) - from mid-March to the end of April.
• For transplanting, a pot is selected 2 cm larger in diameter than the previous one.
• The height of the pot may be small, since the root system of zygocactus is superficial and does not go deep into the ground.
• Drainage holes and a drainage layer (expanded clay, polystyrene, pieces of broken brick) are required, 2-3 cm thick.

Schlumbergers talk about transplantation in a video story:

Watering and feeding

Caring for the Decembrist at home coincides with the conditions for growing indoor deciduous plants. He needs regular watering with settled water at room temperature.

If the air in the room is dry, then The lack of moisture is compensated in two ways:

1. Daily spraying of the plant with settled water.
2. Place the flower pot on a tray with wet drainage, peat moss or moss.

With the onset of spring, the zygocactus needs monthly top dressing. For this, complex fertilizers for flowers are used, the dose of which should be half as much as it is written in the instructions. In summer, the plant is fed twice a month, and in the fall, the Decembrist does not need fertilizers.

pruning zygocactus

When caring for the Decembrist, one should not forget about pruning, after which the bush will take on an attractive appearance and will bloom profusely. For this, ugly and improperly growing shoots are shortened in June. Moreover, experienced flower growers recommend not to cut off parts of the shoots, but to unscrew them manually.

The flower is transplanted in the last days of February immediately after flowering. Pot for the Decembrist should be wide and not very high because its roots are superficial. At the bottom of the pot, be sure to pour a layer of drainage.

The Decembrist prefers a light, loose substrate, which includes:

• peat - 2 parts;
• fertile soil - 1 part;
• coarse sand - 1 part.

For disinfection, a little crushed coal can be added to the mixture, and for good water permeability, brick chips or vermiculite can be added.

Young plants are transplanted annually into pots that are only two centimeters larger than the previous one. Mature plants should be repotted as needed, but not more than once every three to four years.

Rest period (preparation for flowering) - October

During this period, the plant gains strength before flowering, begins laying flower buds. It will depend on the literacy of the October care for the Decembrist whether it will bloom this year or not.

In October, Schlumbergera needs less moisture and light hours. Coolness and fresh air, on the contrary, should be more. Optimum temperatures for autumn keeping are 10-18°C.

• If in the summer the Schlumbergera was on the balcony or in the open air, in the absence of frost, do not bring it into the apartment until November.
• Let it freeze - this contributes to the laying of flower buds.
• Optimum temperatures for autumn keeping are 10-18°C.
• Schlumbergera also tolerates short-term temperature drops to 3-5°C.

During this period, the Decembrist should be watered rarely. Only when the leaf segments begin to shrink, lose turgor. Watering is best done not with water, but with brewed tea. A huge secret of flower growers: the Decembrist lays more flower buds from tea than from expensive fertilizer. According to some reports, after such "tea ceremonies" even problematic, never blooming Decembrists bloom.

Closer to November, be sure to feed the Schlumberger with flowering fertilizer - this will also contribute to a long and abundant flowering.

Why doesn't it bloom?

Most often p The reason lies in non-observance of growing conditions:

1. Insufficient watering.
2. Insufficient lighting.
3. The plant is cramped in a pot and needs a transplant.
4. Insufficiently nutritious soil.

In order for the plant to bloom, it must be properly prepared for flowering. To do this, in the fall he is provided with a period of rest, removing the zygocactus in a cool room. At this time, it practically does not need to be watered and it does not need to be fed at all. To make the zygocactus bloom, at the end of November it is moved to a well-lit place and watered. The plant will "wake up" and begin to pick up buds.

To achieve the abundant flowering of the Decembrist, for no m must be properly cared for:

1. In winter, the plant is recommended to be illuminated with an additional light source.
2. During the flowering period, you can not move and turn the pot, as well as prepare cuttings for propagation.
3. It is strictly forbidden to expose the plant to temperature changes during flowering.
4. If there is cool air in the room, then flowering will last longer.
5. The bush will bloom profusely in a narrow pot.
6. More active flowering is promoted by a temperature regime not higher than + 16C.
7. After a dormant period, watering and fertilizing are resumed very carefully. Otherwise, the plant can get a lot of stress and drop buds.

If you brought a blooming Decembrist home, and its flowers began to fall off, you should not panic. The plant simply adapts to new growing conditions.

Why does the zygocactus wither?

As already mentioned above, the plant wilts if it suffers from fungal diseases. But there may be another reason, root rot.

If the trunk of the Decembrist began to sway, and the flower itself lost its stability, then it is possible that its roots died. This can happen as a result of watering with cold water, hypothermia of the plant, or, conversely, from overheating the flowerpot in the sun. Roots can burn too much fertilizer.

If such a problem is found, the flower must be urgently transplanted into another soil. The roots are examined during transplantation, the affected ones are removed. Then the root system of the plant sprinkled with a little crushed coal and dries up. After that, the zygocactus is planted in a fresh earthen mixture and watered only as needed.

Why are the leaves falling?

Decembrist leaves may fall seemingly for no reason. However, nothing is so simple, so you should find out the reason:

1. If the plant is infected with pests, then it is treated with special preparations.
2. If the leaves of the plant are clean and there are no insects on them, then perhaps the reason is a lack of nutrients. In this case, the Decembrist is watered or sprayed with fertilizers for epiphytic cacti.
3. The reasons for the fall of the end segments can be: a draft, sudden changes in temperature, too dry air, or an untimely transplant.

klumba.guru

How to achieve flowering?

The Christmas tree does not bloom or produces too few flower buds - there may be several reasons for this:

• Perhaps the flower needs a transplant.
• Lack of nutrients in the soil.
• Lack of light or too little watering.

In order for the Decembrist to please the eye with its colorful flowers throughout the winter, he needs careful care and attention all year round. With the onset of warm days, the flower must be taken out to fresh air. A shady place, regular watering, fertilization and frequent spraying are the key to full growth and abundant flowering of the Decembrist.

To achieve long-term flowering of zygocactus, it is necessary to remove faded buds in a timely manner to allow new ones to open.

Growing problems

Many flower growers are concerned about the question of why the leaves of the Decembrist dry. There are several reasons for this phenomenon.

Direct exposure to sunlight can cause burns on the leaves, and in the future they will wither and fall off.

• This plant needs proper care. The flower should not be placed on the windowsills on the south and west sides, and at noon it should be covered from the sun's rays.
• Usually the Decembrist blooms in the first month of winter for the Christmas holidays. But if you provide him with competent and proper care, then the plant can bloom more than once a year, but even 2-3 times.
• For more information on how to care for the Decembrist at home, you can watch the video.

letovsadu.ru

From feeding to flowering

Room Decembrist requires more careful care than other cacti. For normal development at home, he needs loose, nutritious land, abundant watering, stem and root feeding. The flowerpot should be shallow and wide.

When organizing the care of the Decembrist, it must be borne in mind that in its natural environment it grows in tropical forests, where it does not get much sunlight. But it is impossible to completely deprive him of diffused sunlight, otherwise the buds can not wait at all. If the pet was placed on the windowsill, then you should definitely create a good shade curtain for him, which will protect him from excess sunlight. Room temperature is suitable for growing, such conditions can be maintained throughout the year.

First buds

Starting from September-October, the Decembrist will have to create conditions for a short day; a small screen is being prepared for this. For a month and a half, it will perfectly manage an 8-hour daylight hours at temperatures up to + 20 ° C. Subject to this simple condition, a large number of buds will appear by November or early December. During the growing season, a homely handsome man needs sufficient moisture and warmth, periodic spraying.

If there is no time to make a screen, you can send a pot with a plant in September to a room with a temperature of + 10 ° C. Feeding at this time is not carried out, watering is halved. In early November, the zygocactus is put on the windowsill, the previous watering is resumed, and fertilizers are applied. Soon the flower will please with abundant flowering.

• It takes 75-90 days for the buds to open, some of them may fall off. This is a completely normal process, which indicates a certain lack of phosphorus and potassium in the soil.
• You can avoid this if you make additional top dressing. Suitable universal fertilizers for flowering or cacti, a weak solution of mullein.
• It is enough to carry out the procedure 2 times a month. Wood ash as a fertilizer is also appropriate.
• To prevent abundant dropping of buds in the irrigation solution, you can add a little phosphorus and potash fertilizers.

fertilizers

Nitrogen fertilizers during the flowering period should not be used, as they activate the growth of foliage, and not the formation of buds.

If you use folk dressings for tomatoes and peppers, then many of them are also suitable for a home Decembrist, for example, a yeast solution. It is worth remembering right away that it is not recommended to abuse such compounds.

During the fragrance, rearranging the flower pot is also not worth it, since the next move can provoke a drop in buds and foliage. The choice of a suitable place must be taken care of before flowering. Before and during the fragrance, it is recommended to organize preventive treatment with fungicides. During this period, the room dweller loses a lot of strength, so it becomes especially vulnerable to infections and pests.

seasonal care

Caring for this unusual cactus is simple, but varies greatly depending on the season. How to care for him in different periods of the year? At the beginning of winter, it pleases its owner with beautiful flowers, its name comes from the fact that it begins to bloom in December. The flowers look like small bells that have pointed petals with an unusual color. Tones can be red, pink, white.

Since February, reduce watering and reduce the temperature in the room if possible. The state of dormancy will last until the end of March. Dates may vary depending on the variety and flowering period.

The plant is usually transplanted in late April or early May, at the same time you can start propagating by cuttings. They are dried for 2-3 days until a vitreous film appears on the surface, then they are rooted in fertile soil.

For planting, the following composition is suitable:

• piece of sand
• piece of turf land
• two pieces of leaf land.

It is desirable to add crushed charcoal to such a mixture, and lay expanded clay gravel on the bottom of the pot, which will serve as excellent drainage.

In the summer months, the zygocactus feels great in the fresh air, but it does not react well to heat above + 35 ° C and drafts. If possible, it can be taken out of the garden, onto an open terrace, onto a balcony. Lighting should be diffused, so it is necessary to provide a shading screen, which is suitable for dense tulle or parchment paper.

Watering is required plentiful, the water should be separated, soft. The frequency of watering depends on the drying of the soil, it is impossible to fill the plant, as the root system may rot.

Starting in September, the plant is preparing to bloom. The cactus should be placed in a cool place, the optimum temperature will be about 14 ° C. The amount of water at this time begins to limit.

Coolness and lack of water stimulate budding in November.

Future flowers usually begin to form in November, the Decembrist at this time should be moved to a warmer place, the temperature should be from + 15 ° C to 20 ° C. Watering is slightly increased. Buds gradually appear and the flower turns into a chic exotic plant. One can only be proud of such a blooming exotic.

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How to properly water

The Decembrists should be watered in moderation so that the water does not stand and the earth around the flower is not constantly wet. If the room temperature is lower than +14 degrees, it is often not recommended to moisten the soil. When the flower overheats, you should not moisten it with cold water, this can have a deplorable effect on the root system.

The procedure is carried out with pre-settled water at room temperature. In the summer, it is recommended to alternate watering with spraying. Regularly wash off the dust from the branches of the flower by irrigation, covering the ground with plastic wrap.

Decembrist feeding is carried out relative to the schedule. It should be carried out in the summer, as well as in early September, one procedure per month.

• After that, all complementary foods are over, and the plant is given the opportunity to "fall asleep" before flowering. During this period, watering is also limited.
• In early December, the flower is placed in a brighter place, they begin to water more intensively and feed. Thus, "waking up" the Decembrist, you will get flowering before the new year.
• With proper care, your Decembrist flower will always be healthy and attractive.
• Remember that he loves moderate watering, moist air, spraying and root dressing. Does not tolerate extreme heat and direct sunlight, its root system is afraid of cold watering.
• Our winter handsome does not like sudden changes in temperature and the transfer of the pot to another place during the period of tying buds and flowering itself.

Schlumbergera is a cactus brought to Europe from South America at the beginning of the 19th century by collector A. Cunningham. Its habitual habitat is tropical Brazilian forests. Schlumbergera is an epiphyte cactus, it prefers to settle on the branches of trees, absorbing food from the air.

The unpretentious houseplant is widely known as the "Decembrist" or "Christmas" because it prefers to bloom in November, December and January, when other plants are at rest.

Another cactus is called "Barbarian beauty." Usually "Christmas" - Schlumbergera pleases its owners with lush flowering for Christmas. It is believed that the "Decembrist" brings peace and tranquility to the house, absorbing negative energy and making the household kinder.

Ripsalidopsis, its closest relative, is very similar to Schlumbergera. This cactus - an epiphyte also grows in Brazil, and we cultivate it as a houseplant.

A photo

The cactus got its name in honor of the French collector Schlumberger. As a result of selection, a wide variety of hybrids of this plant have been bred. The store usually offers to buy a Schlumberger mix without specifying a specific variety, and the most common are just "Decembrist" and "Trunkata". You have the opportunity to admire them by looking at our photo gallery

Zygocactus or Decembrist

This cactus was originally known as zygocactus, in everyday life it was often called the “Decembrist”, but according to modern classification it is assigned to the genus Schlumbergera, it is called Schlumberger Buckley or Schlumberger Buckley.

On the left is the escape of Sh. Trunkat, on the right is Sh. Bukley

Low spreading cacti have jointed shoots, consisting of several segments. At the end of the segment, 2 new segments are formed, which is why the plant was called zygocactus, from the Greek word “zygon”, “rocker”. Asymmetric multi-tiered tubular crimson flowers with long stamens bloom at the ends of the stems. A plant with long shoots looks beautiful in hanging baskets, flowering lasts up to 2 months.

Trunkata (truncated)

The Schlumbergera Trunkata is slightly different in appearance from the Schlumbergera Buckley. She has more pronounced pointed edges of the segments, the color of the segments is darker and brighter. Flowers with bilateral symmetry have a variety of colors: red, white, lavender, salmon, peach, yellow. If you plant cuttings from plants of different varieties in one pot, you get a beautiful composition with multi-colored flowers.

How to care?

Having bought blooming Schlumbergia in a store, I want to keep its beautiful appearance for as long as possible. This can be done by following a few simple guidelines.

Do I need a transplant after purchase?

If the plant blooms, it can be transplanted only after flowering has ended, otherwise all the flowers will fall off. Young plants are transplanted annually, adults - once every 2-3 years. The pot should not be large, the roots can not be completely freed from the ground, it is only necessary to add fresh soil.

The composition of the soil and types of fertilizers for the soil

Schlumbergera prefers light, breathable, slightly acidic soil (ph ~ 6). Drainage is first poured into the pot (about 1/3), and then the soil is covered. A good earthen mixture will turn out if you add a little soil for orchids to the finished soil for cacti.

Top dressing with a weak solution of complete mineral fertilizer is carried out 2 times a month. You can use fertilizer for cacti or orchids.

Watering and lighting

The plant feels good on the window sill, oriented to the southwest. Schlumbergera does not tolerate direct sunlight and does well in light shade. The plant is rarely watered with water at room temperature, the earth in the pot should not dry out. Abundant watering is allowed only during the flowering period. Schlumbergera responds well to high humidity, it is recommended to periodically spray it with water at room temperature.

Optimal growing temperature

Schlumbergera does not tolerate both severe hypothermia and high temperatures. It will never bloom at temperatures below 11 degrees and above 22 degrees. The most favorable conditions for this plant are a temperature of 15-20 degrees.

The widespread variety of Schlumberger Buckley (Bukley) withstands low temperatures. Schlumbergera Trunkata, imported from Holland and Germany, is more demanding on temperature and does not tolerate hypothermia.

reproduction

Schlumbergera can be propagated by seeds and cuttings. To breed varietal varieties, they sow and grow a plant from seeds; cuttings are usually used in everyday life.

For successful propagation by a cutting, it must have 2-3 segments.

cuttings

Schlumbergera, an inhabitant of tropical rainforests, easily forms aerial roots, it is very easy to propagate it by cuttings. After the plant has faded, the following operations must be done:

• A stalk with 2-3 segments is carefully unscrewed from the mother plant.
• the stalk is dried” during the day in the air;
• the stalk is planted for rooting.

How to root?

Schlumbergera cuttings can be rooted in sand, soil, vermiculite and perlite. The rooting process takes about a month. The appearance of a young segment is a signal that rooting has been successful.

Plant diseases

Schlumbergera is quite resistant to diseases and is practically not affected by pests. Sluggish shriveled shoots most often symbolize waterlogging or insufficient watering. Redness of the shoots is associated with too strong lighting.

Oddly enough, either a lack or an excess of watering leads to such consequences.

Fungal diseases are provoked by damage to the plant (phytophthora), or can be caused by contaminated soil (fusarium and phytium). To combat phytophthora, fungicides (“Fitosporin”) are used. Fusarium and phytium affect mainly the basal part of the stem. The plant has a sluggish appearance, the segments fall off en masse, the flowers become gray in color. For treatment, drugs "Topaz" and "Vitaros" are used.

With a bacterial infection in a plant, the stem begins to rot, gradually this disease begins to spread to the entire plant. Infected pieces of stems should be removed, and in some cases it is advisable to use a healthy cutting and grow a new plant.

Schlumbergera is often affected by a spider mite, the plant is, as it were, covered with a rusty coating. In this case, the use of the Fitoverm preparation is very effective.

Many people buy Schlumbergera in stores or grow it themselves from cuttings borrowed from friends to please themselves with bright flowers in winter. Sometimes the wait drags on for years, the flower does not want to bloom. This is facilitated by the wrong conditions for keeping the plant, sometimes the "Christmas" is confused with the "Easter cactus".

The colors of the Decembrist will appeal to many flower gourmets

Why does it not bloom and how to make it bloom?

Schlumbergera should bloom in winter. At high room temperature, more than 20 degrees, the plant forms a large vegetative mass and does not bloom. If too large a pot is chosen for the plant, it will also start growing, forgetting to bloom.

Schlumbergera blooms profusely every year, if a number of conditions are met:

1. The plant should grow in a tight pot.
2. A pot with a plant is placed on a bright window, protecting it from direct sun and draft.
3. In October-November, you need to provide him with peace, maintaining the temperature no higher than 15 degrees and watering no more than 1 time in 2 weeks, preventing the earthen coma from drying out.
4. It is undesirable to change the location of the cactus during the budding period, otherwise it may drop them.

How is it different from ripsalidopsis?

The cactus-epiphyte of Schlumbergera and the cactus-epiphyte of ripsalidopsis are outwardly similar, but in ripsalidopsis the edges of the leaf plates (segments) are smoother, at the ends of the segments “rudiments” of spines - hair brushes are visible.

The flowers of ripsalidopsis have a symmetrical shape in the form of stars, the color palette is not as diverse as that of Schlumbergera, but the tones are very bright, from dark pink to red, there are instances with white flowers. The pink flowers of ripsalidopsis are fragrant. Ripsalidopsis bloom in the spring, at Easter, so they are called "Easter cacti".

Do not forget to watch a short story about transplanting a Decembrist forest cactus, thanks to this video you can visually appreciate the simplicity and at the same time the scrupulousness of the process. Happy viewing friends!

Schlumbergera or zygocactus - this is an unpretentious indoor flower that can bloom in winter, in December, when other plants are sleeping or sick from lack of sun - made it a favorite for a long time and awarded the folk nicknames "Decembrist", "Christmas" or "Christmas cactus". Schlumbergera is a branching plant, with long jointed branches (another popular name for the flower is “cancer neck”). What we usually take for the leaves of the Decembrist - thin plates fastened to each other - this is actually the stem of the flower, on which its buds appear.

The article describes the main indoor types of Schlumbergera, gives advice on how to make the Decembrist bloom, and also provides basic recommendations for propagating and caring for this plant.

Schlumbergera truncated ( Schlumbergera truncatus)

In this species, shoots can reach 40 cm in length, the stems hang down beautifully. The color of the stem is light green, sometimes it can be with a reddish tint, the size of one stem fragment is from 4-5 cm in length and up to 2-2.5 cm in width. There are sharp teeth on the sides of the segments. Flowers of this variety have a variety of shades: from white and pink to purple and purple.

Schlumbergera truncated

Schlumbergera Buckley (Schlumbergera buckley) Bookley

Also an ampelous type of plant, the segments of its stem have rounded teeth. Flowers appear at the ends of the stems. The color of the flowers is pinkish-lilac.

schlumbergera buckley

The difference between Schlumbergera truncated and Hedwig

Schlumberger prickly pear ( Schlumbergera opuntioides)

This species is more like a cactus - the segments of the stem are teardrop-shaped and covered with spines growing in numerous areoles. In addition, the stem fragments are much thicker than those of other Zygocactus species. This species blooms with pinkish-purple flowers in March-April.

Schlumberger prickly pear

Schlumberger Gertner ( Schlumbergera gaertneri)

The stem segments of this species can reach a length of 6-7 cm. The flowers are orange-red, with pointed petals.

Schlumberger Gaertner

Schlumberger Rousselian ( Schlumbergera Russelliana)

The stems of this species can reach 1 meter in length. The stems are bright green, with red veins, shiny, fleshy. The leaves are rounded. It blooms with red-violet and pink flowers.

Schlumberger Rousselian

Schlumbergera or ripsalidopsis?

Schlumbergens have real confusion with relatives. Decembrist belongs to the subfamily of epiphytic cacti. In addition to Schlumbergera, this subfamily includes three more types of cacti:

• Rhipsalis;
• Lepismium;
• Hathiora (ripsalidopsis) ().

Previously, Schlumbergera was compared with ripsalidopsis, and now you can still find the division of flowers into Schlumbergera and ripsalidopsis.

But according to the modern classification of plants, ripsalidopsis is included in the hatiora species. Therefore, to look for differences between Schlumbergera and ripsalidopsis is not entirely true. It is more correct to say that Schlumbergera is similar to hatiora, but nevertheless, plants of one species can be distinguished from plants of another by a number of signs:

• Schlumbegera and hatiora flowers have different flowering and dormant times. A real Decembrist blooms in December-January, and hatiora (ripsalidopsis), on the contrary, blooms in spring. That is why this species was nicknamed the "Easter cactus" or "Easter egg". The dormant period of hatiora falls in autumn and winter, before flowering.
• At the Decembrist, the flowers resemble a regular star, and at the Easter egg, the flowers are asymmetrical, slightly curly, you can see a tube in them.
• The shape of the stem plates in Schlumbergera is oblong with denticles. In hatiora, the notches are smooth, sometimes the plate may have a reddish color along the edge.

Yes, the two types of plants have differences, but still they are very similar, and the principles of caring for them are the same.

Care

Zygocactus are not too picky. They grow well on the windowsill in an ordinary apartment. However, if you want to have a healthy, flowering plant, then it is best to follow the basic rules for caring for them.

Soil and transplant

In nature, zygocactus, like other epiphytes, can grow in the crevices of trees, holding onto the bark with their roots. Therefore, their root system is not too developed, and the pot can be taken not too large, and the drainage should occupy about a third in it.

Plants are transplanted depending on the growth and filling of the pot before the start of growth - in March-April. For a young, fast-growing plant, an annual transplant is possible; for an adult flower, a transplant can be done every 3-4 years.

The soil for Schlumbergera can be taken ready-made from the store. Land for cacti is suitable, but it needs to be diluted by a quarter with coarse sand. You can prepare the land yourself. For this you need to take:

• Leaf humus;
• Peat in a small amount;
• Sand or perlite so that the soil is loose and allows water to pass through;
• Don't forget the drainage layer.

Fertilizer

Top dressing should be carried out from March to September 1-2 times a month with fertilizers for cacti and succulents, and only on moist soil. Don't fertilize in winter!

Temperature, watering and lighting

Spring Summer: this is a period of active growth, the temperature should be about 20-25 degrees. It is better to place zygocactus in places with good diffused light, avoiding direct sunlight, which burns the leaves. Southeast and southwest windows are best suited for a cactus. It is not recommended to remove the plant in the shade. Feels great on balconies and loggias - in well-ventilated areas. Watering moderate as the soil dries out completely. About once a week. You can look at the condition of the leaves, if they become softer, a little lethargic - you need to water the plant.

• For zygocactus, it is better to produce bottom watering;
• Decembrists love high humidity. You can spray them from time to time;
• In the summer, you can bathe the zygocactus in the shower;
• For irrigation, use clean water (settled or filtered) at room temperature.

Autumn winter: Preparing the plant for flowering:

Bloom

During the autumn period (from the end of September to the middle of November), to form flower buds, zygocactus needs to change the conditions:

• Put in a cool place where the temperature will not be higher than 20˚, but not lower than 10-13˚;
• Reduce watering;
• The place where the Schlumberger will be located should be shaded.

In mid-late November, transfer the Decembrist to a warm place, place it on the windowsill.

• During the period when buds or flowers appeared on the Decembrist, it is important not to turn it on the other side to the sun and not to endure it at all, since the Decembrist can drop them without starting to bloom;
• A flowering plant is watered, but not sprayed;
• During flowering, fertilizers are not needed.

To stimulate the growth of buds in March-April, long shoots are pinched. To do this, at the old, long shoot, you need to break off or unscrew 1-2 segments.

rest period

After the zygocactus has faded, you need to provide him with a rest, until about the month of March.

• The recommended temperature is 13-17 degrees;
• Rare watering (once every one and a half to two weeks);
• Lack of fertilizer.

reproduction

cuttings

The easiest way to propagate is cuttings. For reproduction, it is necessary to break off or unscrew a small shoot from an adult plant - 2-3 segments are enough. The stalk needs to be dried for several days, and then dug under a slight slope into the prepared moist soil. Better rooting will occur if you cover the cutting with a glass jar. But in this case, regularly ventilate and remove condensate so that your cutting does not rot.

With the help of seeds

Schlumbergera can bear fruit. But in room conditions, the fruit is quite difficult to get, because you need to pollinate the flowers. In nature, this is done by hummingbirds or hawks. But if you have different types of Decembrist that you would not mind crossing, try our method.

However, if waiting for the fruits of the Decembrist is too long and tiring, then you can buy seeds of different varieties of Schlumbergera in the store and, planting them on one windowsill, enjoy a mix of flowers of different colors in the winter.

• It is better to sow zygocactus seeds in May-June, on moist soil;
• No need to sprinkle them with earth;
• You can cover with a film and regularly ventilate, removing excess moisture from time to time;
• You can dive young plants, 2 months after seed germination;

plant grafting

Also, the Decembrist can be grafted onto other plants, for example, prickly pear, echinopsis or pereskia. The grafted plant will be distinguished by abundant flowering and will retain the characteristics of its variety in full.

• For grafting, a cut is made on the cart, and then it is split;
• 2-3 segments of the zygocactus are broken off, and then carefully sharpened;
• Insert the segments into the cleft of the supply and fix them with a thin needle or a narrow strip of fabric;
• The temperature should not be higher than 18-20˚;
• A Decembrist can grow to another plant in a couple of weeks;
• After growth, support needles and bandages can be removed;
• It is also necessary to remove the growing shoots in time so as not to break the vaccine.

Diseases and pests

Schlumbergera is not particularly demanding in care, but it can also get sick if you do not follow the rules of watering and lighting.

• Shoots are sluggish and pale. Perhaps the zygocactus lacks light and watering;
• Shoots began to give redness. This happens if the Schlumberger is in direct sunlight;
• The Decembrist does not bloom. This means that the rest period was not properly organized: coolness, shading and poor watering;
• If the zygocactus has dropped buds and flowers, then most likely the plant has changed the direction of illumination, the temperature has changed, or the flower is standing in a draft;
• Erosion appeared on the leaves (with redness) - the burn of the plant.
• Most often, the plant suffers from fungal diseases or bacterial. Rotten, diseased parts of the plant are carefully removed. Treatment is with fungicides.
• Of the pests on the flower, a mealybug, spider mite, and scale insect can settle. Special tools from the store will perfectly cope with them.

Useful video

Schlumbergera has been used in indoor floriculture for a very long time. She is loved for her unpretentiousness and bright flowers in winter. This plant will look spectacular in hanging planters, and in an ordinary pot on the windowsill and, no doubt, will decorate any home with it.

When growing Schlumbergera at home, it is necessary to create conditions for the plant so that they are as close as possible to their natural habitat. This is the only way to achieve lush flowering of zygocactus.

Botanical description

Schlumbergera (Schlumbergera) belongs to the genus of epiphytic representatives Cactus, which bloom in December-January. For our latitudes, the flowering period seems unusual, so the people called the Schlumberger "Decembrist", "Christmas cactus".

A beautifully flowering perennial plant, sometimes confused with ripsalidopsis- An Easter cactus, since flowering occurs in April. These flowers are very different. The leaf segments of the Schlumbergera have sharp teeth, the flowers are asymmetrical, slightly beveled. While in ripsalidopsis, the leaf blades have rounded edges, and the flowers bloom in the form of stars.

The lush bush of Schlumbergera consists of many branched stems.. Toothed segments reach a length of 5 cm and a width of 2.5 cm. Toward the end of autumn or early winter, numerous buds appear at the ends of the segments, which bloom closer to the Christmas holidays. Depending on the type, the flowers can be painted in pink, crimson, white, orange and red.

Hybrid variety Schlumbergera

Under good conditions, the flowering of zygocactus can last up to one month. Since the stems of the plant are quite sprawling, it is preferable to grow it in hanging flower pots or in stemmed flower pots.

Origin of the plant and distribution area

It may seem strange to many that the Schlumbergera came to us from the tropics. Can cacti live in hot and humid forests? Yes they can. And the rainy tropics did not become a hindrance to them. The fact is that cacti settle at an altitude above sea level by 600-1500 m. They are compact bushes that look out cutely from cracks in the bark or from under huge vines. Cacti grow into the trunk of the vine and feed on decaying organic matter.

A beautiful plant whose flowering is not subject to any laws of nature came to us from tropical forests located in the southeast of Brazil.

When the segments break off, roots grow on them very quickly and new plants quickly attach to the support and continue to live and develop. Since cacti are located high above the ground, frequent tropical rains only moisten them and the drops flow down. Therefore, Schlumbergers live in conditions of prolonged dryness.

Schlumbergera blooms with completely unusual, red-orange flowers with bright stamens that stand out beautifully above the oblong petals

Under natural growing conditions, flowering plants occur in late spring or early summer. And here Schlumbergera blooms in winter, since our winter corresponds in time to the Brazilian summer. The plant has an excellent genetic memory, so it is not affected by changes in geographical latitudes. As laid down by genetics, so the plant begins to bloom.

plant species

Schlumbergera got its name in honor of Frederick Schlumberger, who collected cacti. A little later, the flower received another name - zygocactus, which in Greek meant "rocker". The fact is that during vegetative growth, the segments are stratified only into 2 parts, this feature of the plant caused people to associate with the rocker.

Schlumbergera truncated

Truncated (Schlumbergera truncatus)

Perennial plant related to succulents. It reaches a height of 50 cm. The stems of the plant are drooping, light green, can reach a length of 30 cm. Schlumbergera stems consist of leaf-shaped segments, well curved, with a clearly visible serrated edge with sharp teeth. The segment is 2.5 cm wide and 5 cm long. Areolas with bristles are visible at the apex of the segment. They are located between the teeth.

Flowers appear at the top of the segments. One flower blooms on one segment, in rare cases 2-3 bilaterally symmetrical flowers can be seen. The flower tube takes on a slightly curved shape. The stamens are clearly visible, as they "fall out" and go beyond the wide open outer petals of the corolla.

During flowering, the truncated Schlumbergera is covered with caps of white, pale pink, pale lilac, purple flowers. After flowering, a fruit is formed in the form of a red berry, up to 1 cm long.

Schlumbergera booklets

Medium-sized epiphytic plant, reaching a height of 40-45 cm. Flat, dark green, shiny stems of the plant branch well. The fleshy stems consist of many flat segments, the edges of which are weakly pronounced and are characterized by slight pubescence. Areoles do not contain spines.

The flower includes numerous pointed oblong petals and a long yellow tube. Flower diameter - up to 8 cm. Depending on the variety, flowers can be painted in all colors of the rainbow and differ in flowering time. There are even yellow varieties of Schlumbergera bouclei.

schlumbergera rousseliana

Russeliana (Schlumbergera Russelliana)

An epiphytic, low-growing plant, reaching a height of 30 cm. Falling shoots have flat segments covered with a glossy sheen.

It is recommended to grow in a hanging planter, as the length of the stems under good growing conditions can reach 1 m. The stems are fleshy, the edges of the shoots are scalloped, there are no thorns in the areoles. The length of one segment varies between 3-3.5 cm, the width is about 2 cm.

A well-marked central vein runs throughout the leaf. Under natural growing conditions in early spring, Schlumbergera blooms with red, carmine, pink, purple flowers. Flower petals are oblong, pointed, numerous. A greenish tube emerges from the center.

Schlumberger Gaertner

Gaertner (Schlumbergera gaertneri)

Unlike other representatives of the genus, Gertner is a large plant with red-orange flowers. Flower petals are strongly pointed, leaf segments are 6 cm long.

A distinctive feature of Schlumbergera Gertner are huge flowers with pronounced pointed petals and rounded segments.

How to care

In order for the plant to willingly grow and delight in flowering in December, right at Christmas, you will need to know the conditions in which it grows in its natural habitat and try to create the same conditions in your apartment.

Lighting

It is clear that cacti need bright light. However, for Schlumbergera, such a solution to the issue of lighting will be disastrous. In their natural habitat, forest beauties bloom in light shading, so at home it is advisable to provide the plant with a western or northern window sill. If the windows of the apartment face south or east, in this case, light shading will be required during the daytime.

From the bright scorching rays of the sun, the Schlumberger segments can turn red and get burned.

Many arrange lighting to ensure the winter flowering of the Decembrist . You should not waste time and money on organizing additional lighting, it is useless for zygocactus. The fact is that flower buds are laid long before flowering. In our case, this time falls on the summer period.

Therefore, the Decembrists easily bloom in conditions of short daylight hours. For flowering, the plant needs to go through a cycle of reducing natural light and reducing solar activity. To these indicators, it is also necessary to add a decrease in the temperature in the room, a reduction in watering, but within reasonable limits, without prolonged overdrying of the earthen coma.

So that the plant does not drop flowers, at the time when the first buds appear on the segments, it is not recommended to move the pot with the plant and transfer it to a new place. A change in location can be stressful for the Schlumbergera and she will shed her buds without blooming or showing her beauty.

The soil

Tropical representatives are very sensitive to air humidity and do not tolerate stagnant water in the soil. For good growth and development, the plant needs loose soil, in which air exchange is easily carried out.

In their natural habitat, epiphytic plants live in the crevices of trees and among stones, so they do not need constant soil moisture. They feed on decaying mosses and tree bark, therefore, when compiling soil for Schlumbergera, this feature should be taken into account and soil should be made with a pH of 5.5.

Thanks to breeding work, terry varieties of Schlumbergera were bred, which fascinate with the size of flowers and their color (Schlumbergera Aspen)

If there is no confidence in the purchased soil, you can make your own. To do this, you need to take 1 part of soddy land, 1 part of sand and 1 part of high-moor sour peat. Vermiculite can act as an alternative to sand. In addition, chopped moss should be added to the soil.

Schlumbergera does not like stagnant water, so there should be a drainage layer at the bottom of the pot, consisting of expanded clay and occupying 1/3 of the pot.

Watering

Plants growing in partial shade do not need frequent watering, only as the earthen coma dries up. The plant will not do well in excessively dry soil. Excessive waterlogging also has a negative effect. Therefore, Schlumbergera prefers the golden mean.

Schlumbergera truncated (Shlumbergera truncata)

It is desirable that the flower pot stand on the eastern windowsill. It is necessary to water with settled water at room temperature. when watering with cold water, rotting of the root system may occur. In addition, there are too many impurities in tap water that adversely affect the development of plants.

If the room is hot and dry, Schlumberger segments need to be sprayed with room temperature water.

Other approaches can be used to increase humidity. For example, near a flower pot, you can put an additional container of water, install a decorative fountain, or put a pallet with moistened expanded clay.

Content temperature

There is no critical temperature threshold for Schlumbergera. In other words, the plant is not demanding on the temperature in the room. However, it is recommended to stick to +22-25 °C in summer, and in winter it is desirable to reduce this figure to +16 °C. Thus, it is possible to extend the flowering period, since the flower quickly fades in a hot room.

During the active period of vegetative growth, when the plant is rapidly increasing its green mass, the flower pot must be taken out into the fresh airso that it receives air baths. At this time, it is not recommended to expose the delicate foliage of the Schlumbergera to the scorching rays of the sun, since the possibility of getting burns is not ruled out, it is better to find a secluded corner in partial shade for it.

On summer days, it is advisable to wash the plant, giving it a refreshing shower.. You need to take a pot with zygocactus, wrap the earth with polyethylene, put it in a bath and wash the plant in the shower. Water should be summer. Thus, all the accumulated dust will be washed off and the plant will develop better.

If there is no shower in the house, this problem can be solved by spraying or wiping the leaf segments with a soft, damp cloth.

Fertilization for better growth and flowering

The vegetative period of the zygocactus begins in spring, in March. Starting from this moment and until the cessation of vegetative growth, the plant needs monthly top dressing.

soil fertilization

Experienced flower growers recommend feeding with complex mineral fertilizers, which include all the necessary substances and trace elements, but they need to be diluted in half the concentration than indicated in the instructions.

Starting from May, additional top dressing with the same mineral fertilizers is included.. With the advent of autumn, they are again transferred to a one-time top dressing.

Transfer

Young specimens are transplanted annually, or rather, transferred to a new pot. The selected container should only be a couple of centimeters wider and higher than the previous one. Adult specimens are transplanted 1 time in 2-3-4 years. The whole procedure is performed after the plant has faded.

Schlumbergera flowering is observed only after the root system completely entwines all the space provided to it. Therefore, if a small plant is given a large area for growth, flowering can not be expected until the roots fill the entire earthen ball.

Reproduction methods

At home, 2 methods of reproduction are used. This is grafting and propagation using leaf segments. The seed method is used mainly by breeders to obtain new varieties and hybrids. Flower growers in rare cases practice this rather complicated and labor-intensive method.

Reproduction by leaf segments

Schlumbergera cuttings take root well after flowering.. When the plant fades, you need to pluck or cut off the stem, on which there are 2-3 segments. The cut should be sprinkled with activated charcoal and left at room temperature to dry.

For rooting, you need to pour a nutrient mixture into the pot, deepen the cutting by 1-1.5 cm. After that, slightly wet the soil and cover the cup with the handle with another container.

Grafting

Not so complicated, quite an interesting way of reproduction. As a scion, prickly pear or pereskia or prickly pear is used.

The whole procedure is carried out in the summer, this time is considered more suitable, since in the summer there is a better survival rate of the scion with a stock.

plant grafting

A healthy specimen of perescia is selected for vaccination.. All green mass must be completely removed. On the pereskia, it is important to leave only one main stem, approximately 2-3 cm from the soil, split it in two.

As a scion, the stem of a Schlumbergera plant with 2 segments is chosen.. The bottom of the cut must be made obliquely and the scion must be combined with the rootstock, that is, the Schlumbergera leaf segment must be inserted into the split made on the perescia stem.

So that the graft does not bend or fall, you need to fasten the place of the stock with some material and wrap it with a plaster or fasten with a thread.

A pot with a grafted plant cannot be covered with a glass jar and any other greenhouse can be arranged! Rooting should occur in natural conditions.

It is necessary to create a favorable temperature for better grafting. The optimum temperature is considered to be + 18-20 ° C. Under good conditions, fusion occurs within 2 weeks. You can understand that the whole process has been successfully completed by the fact that the scion will start to grow.

Now the bandage should be removed. With regular inspection, it is important to remove shoots that will appear below the scion.

Why is this method good? The grafted Schlumbergera is characterized by abundant and lush flowering. Such a plant can be grown as a standard tree. Over time, a beautiful hat of green foliage forms on the plant.

The grafted Schlumbergera has a powerful growth, so it needs support! Plants grafted in April begin to bloom the same year.

crown formation

To form a beautiful crown on the plant, it is recommended to carry out a formative pruning after flowering. During formation, segments cannot be cut, it is better to pluck them, since the cut can lead to rapid decay of the leaf segments.

Formation allows the plant to grow a large green mass, the bush will look lush and sprawling.

Subtleties: how to achieve lush flowering

In order to truly enjoy the fabulous flowering of the Decembrist, you need to know its natural features and, if possible, bring the content at home as close as possible to the natural habitat.

For a plant, care will depend on the phase that it goes through in a certain period of time:

• March to September - growing season
• September to early November rest time
• second decade of November - January - flowering period
• from February to March - another dormant period

March-September: plant care

• In March, the Decembrist begins a period of active growth. At this time, there is an increase in green mass, the plant responds well to fertilization. As fertilizers, you need to choose complex top dressings with a minimum nitrogen content, since excessive application of nitrogen-containing fertilizers can lead to decay of the root system.
• During growth in the warm season, you can take the pot with the plant to the terrace or balcony to give the flower a lot of pleasure. You can not put the pot in the open sun, as the Schlumbergera will get foliage burns. It should be noted that in the open air the earthy ball will dry out faster, so more frequent watering will be required, but without excessive waterlogging.

September-early November: we poison the plant to rest

• The first decade of September is characterized for the plant by the beginning of the laying of flower buds.. This process cannot be seen, but you should be aware of it. The dormant period is an important time period for Schlumbergera and responsible for the grower. If you do not take into account the characteristics of the plant, you can not wait for flowering.
• Starting in September, watering is minimized., but do not allow the earthen coma to dry out completely. The room temperature should also be lowered. If possible, it is recommended to move the flower pot to a cool room, since it is unlikely that it will be possible to lower the temperature in an ordinary apartment.
• An unheated loggia will serve as the optimal place for keeping Schlumbergera for laying flower buds.
• During this time, the temperature can drop to +3 °C.. It will not be critical for the plant, on the contrary, it will stimulate the laying of the kidneys.
• During dormancy, you should rarely water the plant. Such a shake will turn into a lush and abundant flowering.

Second decade of November - January: flowering period

• In mid-November, the plant is brought into the room, accustomed to a constant temperature.. Soon it will gratefully respond to the care of the owner and will be covered with buds.
• At this time, fertilizing with fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus is needed. It is recommended to feed once with calcium nitrate.

February-March: another dormant period

• During this time period, it is recommended to carry out shaping pruning. to provide the plant with further growth of new green mass, which will contribute to the laying of buds and abundant flowering.

  Schlumbergera Orchidaceae

  Consider the most common care mistakes that can lead to rotting of the root system, to weakening and withering of leaf segments and to their redness:

  1. The segments acquire an unpleasant reddish tint. There is nothing wrong with the fact that the leaves turned red - no. This means that you have kept the plants at an uncomfortable temperature for a long time. The acquisition of a reddish tint by leaf segments indicates hypothermia, and this is its protective reaction. After the plant stands in a warm room, the leaves will turn green again.
  2. What causes wrinkled and sluggish leaves? This problem depends on 5 mistakes that flower growers make. Wrinkling and lethargy of foliage can be affected by: watering with cold water, prolonged drying of an earthen clod, excessive bathing in the sun, a prolonged decrease in temperature, fertilization in high concentrations. If the lethargy was affected by waterlogging, it is likely that the root system begins to rot. It is necessary to immediately remove the plant from the pot, dry the lump and transplant into new soil. If root decay has begun, it is necessary to reanimate the Schlumberger - cutting and propagating.
  3. How to prevent bud drop? The plant does not like the change of location. To avoid stressful situations, as a result of which the buds fall off, it is not recommended to often rearrange the flower pot to a new place.
  4. No flowering. This problem can be associated with many factors: lack of sufficient natural light or, conversely, excessive, improper watering, lack of a dormant period and keeping in a cool room. The plant can grow in the wrong size pot or in poorly nutritious soil.
  5. What is the reason for the fact when the plant loses foliage? If leaf fall has begun, it means that a spider mite has settled on the plant. The appearance of the pest is facilitated by increased dryness of the air, lack of hygiene procedures, rare watering with prolonged drying of the earthen clod, and the lack of regular top dressing. To correct the situation, it is necessary to treat the plant from the spider mite and then follow the agricultural practices for caring for the Schlumbergera.

  To avoid mistakes in care, you should know that the plant does not tolerate drafts. During fertilization, Schlumbergera responds well to complex fertilizers, but they need to be applied only at half concentration, otherwise it will lead to yellowing, wilting and falling off of foliage, and poor flowering with pale flowers.

  Diseases and pests

  Of all diseases, Schlumbergers are more susceptible to bacterial and fungal diseases. It is possible that with improper care, pests will not appear on the plants.

  Knowing the mistakes that can be made when caring for the Decembrist, you can avoid them and grow a beautifully flowering plant

  Fusarium. A fungal disease that occurs when the fungus enters when the stem segments are damaged. Effective means in the fight against fusarium are broad-spectrum fungicides. They contain components that fight the fungus.

  Phytophthora. Oddly enough, Schlumbergera is also susceptible to the disease of nightshade crops. Infection occurs through the soil, when the soil is not disinfected during transplantation. In the event of a disease, the root neck is first damaged. The disease progresses and as a result there is a massive loss of leaf segments, the plant begins to wither when in moist soil. It is recommended to process with Skor, Maxim, Topaz.

  Spider mite. The most common pest that plagues Schlumberger. In the fight against arachnids, Actellik, Neoron, Tanrek, Aktara can be used.

  Probably, many people know such a plant as the Decembrist or Schlumbergera. But not everyone knows that it is a cactus, and one of the synonyms for its name is zygocactus.

  Representatives of the genus Schlumberger are epiphytes that came to us from the tropics. They got their name "Decembrist" or "Christmas" due to the fact that they bloom in December and their flowering often falls on Christmas for the old style.

  
  

  Schlumbergera species and varieties

  This genus is not numerous, it includes only six species, the remaining names are most often synonyms or varietal forms.

  The shoots consist of flat elements, on the sides of which two or three blunt teeth are placed. One gets the impression that the elements that make up the sheet are truncated, which is why the view is called so. The flowers are large - up to 8 cm in length, can be of various tones.

  

  In the past, it was classified as a subspecies of the Truncated, but later separated into a separate species. Segments of cladodies (modified shoots) are smaller. The flowers are purple in color, slightly smaller in both length and diameter. The fruits are yellowish with red.

  

  On the segments of this Decembrist, teeth stand out well. The elements themselves are slightly larger than those of relatives. Flowers pale pink. The fruits are yellow-green, ribbed. It is valuable for gardeners because it blooms three times a year: in early spring, late summer and late autumn.

  

  The elements of the cladodii are also rather large; they begin to become woody with aging. Flowers up to 6 cm long, up to 5 cm in diameter. Blooms in mid-spring. The fruit is green in color, round and ribbed.

  

  All types of zygocactus are demanding on the conditions of detention and it is difficult to grow them in a room; if the rules of care are violated, the plants die quickly. Therefore, great value for gardeners, especially beginners, in this matter, is Zygocactus Buckley , which is a hybrid form and has greater unpretentiousness than pure species.

  

  Since almost all species have their own characteristics in care, this particular hybrid is mainly grown in floriculture.

  There are also many varieties with different colors of petals, among which there are variegated ones.

  • Aspen - large white double flowers.

  

  • brazil - the center of the petal is white, and the edges are yellow.

  

  • Frances Rolanson - in the center it changes from white to yellow, and the edges of the petals are red.

  

  • beauty dragon - peach color of petals.

  

  • salsa dancer - the middle of the flower is white, and the edges are lilac.

  

  • Polka dancer - delicate light lilac color.

  

  Schlumberger home care

  As already mentioned, in terms of care, the Decembrist is a whimsical plant. Although its hybrid form is most often grown by flower growers, it is less demanding, but it also needs to be well looked after.

  In terms of lighting, the zygocactus needs partial shade with weak diffused light. Direct beams can be fatal. If the shoots began to turn red, then most likely this is a symptom of excessive lighting. It is worth paying attention to the fact that lighting by artificial sources is excellent for the Decembrist.

  Both in summer and winter, the Decembrist must be kept at a temperature close to 19 ° C. This plant does not have a pronounced dormant period.

  Hybrid Schlumberger blooms in winter with oblong pink or white (but the color may vary depending on the variety) flowers that are placed at the ends of the cladodes. When grown in a room, pollination is not possible, since in nature they are pollinated by birds.

  Pachypodium is an interesting succulent with beautiful flowering, grown at home without much hassle, but still some rules should be followed. You can find all the necessary recommendations for growing and caring in this article.

  

  Watering Schlumbergera

  In the warm season, watering is carried out approximately once every 4 days, plus or minus one, depending on the air temperature. Do not allow the soil to dry out or the presence of excess moisture.

  Starting from mid-autumn, watering begins to be carried out every 7 days. When the buds are formed, watering is resumed to the summer level. After the end of flowering, the number of waterings is again reduced to once for 14 days.

  

  Primer for Schlumbergera

  To grow a Schlumberger, you need soil with a lot of humus. To make the mixture yourself, take turfy soil, leaf humus, peat and coarse sand in equal proportions.

  Also, do not forget about a good drainage layer. A small pot is selected for growing, otherwise all the strength of the bush will go to the roots and flowering will not come soon.

  

  Schlumberger transplant

  Transplantation is carried out after the end of flowering or at the beginning of spring every 2-4 years, depending on the need.

  The procedure, as a rule, does not cause difficulties and does not require special skills, you just need to be careful not to damage the root system. A pot for transplanting is taken only 1-2 cm larger than the previous one.

  

  Fertilizer for Schlumbergera

  It is necessary to fertilize the zygocactus once every 20-30 days with top dressing for decorative flowering houseplants or cacti.

  

  Schlumbergera Growing Mistakes

  • Sometimes you can find completely disastrous tips for caring for a Schlumberger. For example, the advice to keep the soil always moist will not lead to budding, but to rotting of the root system.
  • Maintaining a Decembrist for a long time without watering will not help speed up budding.
  • Also, in order for the plant to grow buds, it is sometimes advised to put it in the dark - this is also wrong, because without light the zygocactus dies as well as with its excess.

  

  Schlumbergera breeding

  Reproduction of zygocactus at home is available only by cuttings.

  Cuttings root very easily, even if it is just one element of the cladody. To get a cutting, several segments are carefully unscrewed from the rest of the shoot; they cannot be cut off.

  Within seven days, the material is dried, approximately in this period of time, callus should appear on the cuttings, after which they can be planted for rooting in peat mixed with sand.

  When the cuttings grow, they are transplanted into separate pots with soil for adult plants.

  Also, the cuttings can be rooted in a hydrogel, already swollen balls are poured into a small vase and cladodes are inserted between them. The cutting will suck moisture from the hydrogel as needed. Transplantation is carried out as the roots grow.

  

  Diseases and pests

  Despite the high sensitivity to the conditions of detention, pests and diseases rarely disturb the Decembrist.

  Sometimes an attack can happen spider mite - in this case, the shoots are washed with soapy water or they resort to insecticides, for example, Aktellik. Similar with mealybug - this pest is harvested by hand, and with a large invasion, they resort to chemical preparations.

  Most often, problems begin precisely because of improper care.

  plant wilting in most cases it occurs due to excess moisture, it may seem that the bush is drying out, but, as a rule, this is not the case. To test your guess, lightly pull the bush - if it is weakly held in the ground, then it is unlikely to be saved. It is better to put the bush on the cutting material.

  Redness of the cladodes , as already mentioned, indicates an excess of light. Place the plant in a more shaded place and everything will gradually return to normal.

  There is also the question of lack of flowering zygocactus . Buds are laid best at a temperature of 11 to 17 ° C. If the room is above 23 or below 10 degrees, flowering will not occur. To make the buds better, lower the temperature in the room with the Decembrist to 16-18 degrees in October, or a little lower if this is not a problem for you. Also, in order to stimulate budding, it is advised to pinch the extreme segments on shoots that have already bloomed in the past.