How to make a spoon from a wine cork. DIY cork wobbler. Popper made of wood

Of the variety of plastic wobbler fish, such bait as a popper has recently gained great popularity. Invented by American anglers back in the 30s of the last century, it is now part of any spinning player's arsenal. Such popularity of the popper is explained by the structure of his body, the peculiarities of the application, the technique of catching with him.

Popper is a bladeless surface wobbler with an elongated or slightly rounded body. Its distinctive feature is the funnel-shaped recess in the head ("spit-bowl"), making it look like a small fish with a wide-open mouth. When wiring, this groove creates characteristic gurgling sounds - as if the fry on the surface are missing insects that have fallen into the water or flying low above it (mosquitoes, midges).

The length of this bait ranges from 3-4 to 12-15 cm, weight - from 2-3 to 18-20 grams.

Equipped with a wobbler with two triple or double soft-edged hooks. Hooks are located on wire suspension loops on the abdomen, in the tail. The color of the wobbler can be either natural, under the fry of perch, rudd or roach, or bright unnatural colors (acid green, yellow). The wobbler is attached to a fishing line or latch of a metal leash using a loop with a ring located inside its nasal recess.

Such fish are made from durable plastic, balsa. Most models have a sound chamber inside the body with small balls, which, when playing a wobbler, create sounds that attract a predator.

On a note

When looking for the best popper, most anglers prefer hard plastic models. This material, in contrast to balsa wood, is more durable, durable, not so scratched when a predator grabs it.

Popper classification

A variety of such surface lures is classified depending on the location of the load - the shift of the center of gravity to the tail, head part of the wobbler or its uniform distribution over the entire body of the bait.

On this basis, these wobblers are divided into:

Front-loaded - most of the load in such lures is concentrated in the head part.
Rear-loaded - the main part of the load is shifted to the tail of the popper.
Lures with weight evenly spread over the whole body.

Check the distribution of the weight by lowering the popper fixed to the line into the aquarium or a container with clear water. By which part of the wobbler is the most recessed, it is determined which of the types described above it belongs to.

On a note

The division of these plastic fish into floating or sinking poppers is incorrect, since these bladeless wobblers do not dive deeper than 10-15 cm.

The choice of tackle for fishing

Rod and reel

For fishing with such a wobbler, a rod with the following characteristics is used:

Length - 2.1-2.4 meters.
The build is super fast.
Test - 10-30 grams.
The blank material is graphite.

Jig blanks with a thin, sensitive tip are not suitable for fishing with poppers. The spinning rod for this lure is chosen from twitching models, with a rigid, durable whip, a comfortable spaced EVA handle, and a reliable reel seat.

The inertia-free reel installed on a spinning rod must have the following characteristics:

Line capacity (size) - 2500-3000.
The gear ratio is 5.0-5.2: 1.
The number of bearings - at least 4-5 installed in the transmission mechanism, the roller of the line, the knob.
Body material - aluminum alloy, carbon fiber.
Weight - no more than 300 grams.

Fishing line

Popper fishing tackle comes with a brightly colored braided cord with a cross section of 0.08-0.12 mm. Monofilament line 0.18-0.22 mm thick is used when fishing for perch in small ponds with a maximum casting distance of no more than 15 meters.

On a note

A bright color of the cord is necessary in order to see in low light conditions where the bait lies, to which place it goes at the end of the line.

Fishing technique and tactics

The technique and tactics of fishing with a popper includes the correct choice of the place and time of fishing, the execution of the posting, hooking, and playing.

Choosing the place and time of fishing

Fishing with bladeless surface wobblers is most successful in summer, from June to the end of August. In autumn, as the temperature falls and the aquatic vegetation dies off, their catchability decreases significantly, yielding to heavy sinking wobblers, oscillating spoons, twisters and vibro-tails.

Such plastic fish are used in reservoirs, where other baits will often cling. Such places include:

Shallow river oxbows overgrown with grass, bays.
Zagorazyazhnye ponds, lakes.
"Zhabovniki" - shallow lakes, strongly overgrown with grass, rates.
Areas of rivers with a weak current, a large amount of aquatic vegetation on the surface.

Popper fishing is inconvenient and ineffective in clean sections of rivers with medium or fast currents. In such conditions, the wobbler will be heavily blown away by the flow of water, poorly animated.

Wiring features

When fishing with a popper, the classic twitching (jerking) wiring is used, performed as follows:

After casting, they exhaust the slack in the line and wait for some time until the fish stops creating ripples around itself.
In order to easily control the wobbler, the tip of the blank is lowered as close to the water as possible.
After the wobbler has become stationary, they begin to wind the line with a reel, while performing short and sharp jerks with the tip of the rod. Good wiring is evidenced by the characteristic gurgling sound and the bubble trail behind the fish.

On a note

The force of the jerk should be such that the bait does not jump out of the water, but creates only a splash and the necessary sound. It is also possible to wire, consisting of jerks and pauses lasting 2-3 seconds. Popper posting depends on the activity of the fish: for a sluggish and inactive predator, posting with jerks and long pauses is used. When fishing for active fish, wiring is used, in which each jerk alternates with a small pause or without it at all.

Hooking and playing

A bite on such a surface wobbler is felt not only "in the hand", but is also visible visually by a splash next to the wobbler. Undercut in this case with a sharp and short jerk. The fish is hauled out carefully, not giving it the opportunity to drag the wobbler into the bushes, grass, snag.

How to make a popper yourself

You can make a popper with your own hands from such simple improvised materials as a wine cork or wood.

From cork

A homemade popper is made from a wine cork using the following technology:

At the ends of the cork, lines are drawn through the center with a marker.
A frame consisting of three suspension loops - anterior, posterior and abdominal - is bent from steel wire.
The loops are fixed with a thin copper wire winding.
The cork is cut lengthwise to the middle.
A wire frame is laid in the cut.
In the cut, 3-4 notches are also made for loading.
Lead pellets weighing 0.7-1.0 grams are inserted into the recesses.
Small chips are poured into the cut, thoroughly impregnated with waterproof transparent glue.
After the glue has dried, the body of the popper is treated with a transparent waterproof varnish.
A hole is made in the beer cork so that the front loop of the wire frame passes through it.
The end of the bait and the back (flat) side of the beer cork are coated with durable epoxy waterproof glue.
Glue the beer cork to the body of the bait.
Two artificial eyes are glued to the sides of the bait.

You can see the process of making the bait more clearly in the video below:

Made of wood

The process of making a popper from wood is as follows:

A birch block 5-7 cm long and 1.5-2 cm in diameter is ground under a cone.
The wide (head) part is cut at an angle of about 300.
At the end of the wide part, a recess is made - a "spit-stick". To do this, first scrape out a small hole with a knife, expand it with a drill and process it with coarse-grained emery paper.
A cut is made on the belly of the bait.
A wire frame and pellets are inserted into the cut.
Wood chips mixed with waterproof glue are poured into the cut.
After the glue hardens, the abdomen is treated with sandpaper.

In more detail, the entire manufacturing process is clearly shown in the following video:

On a note

More accurate dimensions and drawings for fishing and making such a bait can be found on the fishing forums.

Hooks

Homemade popper is equipped with strong and large triple, less often double hooks No. 3-2.

Bait coloring

The color does not affect the catchability of the bait in any way - the predator sees it from below and does not react even to the most realistic coloring. The color of the plug is more important for the angler himself, who needs to see the lure from a long distance in conditions of twilight, ripples or waves. Therefore, the best popper should be painted in colors visible on the water - green, white, red, etc.

How to choose a popper

Catching poppers are chosen in terms of length, type of load, based on criteria such as the object of fishing, casting distance.

To size

With a bait size of 5-6 cm, the angler can count on catching a large perch, small pike, asp.
For medium and large pike, asp, the most suitable lures with a length of more than 7 cm.

By casting distance

If you need to cast over long distances, use lures with a back load.
The best popper for short-range fishing should have the weight placed in the front or evenly distributed throughout the body.

On a note

The shape of the popper affects the throw distance. Lures with an elongated body can be cast further than those with a more rounded body.

Popular models

Among the large number of models of poppers for fishing, the following are most commonly used:

Yo-Zuri EBA Popper 50mm.
Megabass Pop-X.
Lucky Craft Bevy Popper.
Pontoon 21 Beat Bull.
Kosadaka Takao 70 ° F.
Yo-Zuri Hydro Popper R511.

Conclusion

Popper-type wobblers are a versatile group of surface plastic fish used by predatory fish species. Their catching ability depends both on the correct choice of the bait itself, and on the place, time of fishing, and the use of a suitable spinning tackle.

Making feeders for a feeder with your own hands ⇩
Benefits and features ⇩
DIY metal feeder for a feeder ⇩
Feeders made of metal mesh, wire or galvanized ⇩
Spring Feeders ⇩
DIY plastic feeder for a feeder ⇩
Plastic bottle feeder ⇩
Feeder trough made of female curlers ⇩
DIY cork feeder ⇩
Homemade feeder feeders from filters of photo printing machines ⇩
Do-it-yourself bullet or rocket feeder ⇩
Feeder "Method" for the feeder with your own hands ⇩
Do-it-yourself floating feeder for a feeder ⇩
DIY feeding trough for the feeder ⇩
Do-it-yourself feeder feeder for long-distance casting ⇩
Sliding feeder trough ⇩
Do-it-yourself shooting feeder "Shotgun" under the feeder ⇩
DIY flow feeders ⇩
We make a branch for the feeder ⇩
Feeder trough assembly ⇩

Experienced anglers know firsthand about the need for a feeder on hand. This is a consumable that quite often comes off during fishing, so it's good to stock up on a sufficient number of these same feeders. And most importantly, you can make them yourself, in the sizes and volumes that you need.

Making feeders for a feeder with your own hands

The process of preparing feeders is quite simple and does not require special skills. Once you get used to it, this lesson will become very simple and interesting.

Benefits and features

The main advantage is the low cost of the feeders, there is no need to overpay for the purchase of branded products. In addition, you can independently create absolutely any design, depending on what kind of fish you catch, in what season, and so on.

DIY metal feeder for a feeder

The advantage of this option is its cost and availability of materials. Strength and design variability. Such feeders (for example, a spring) open up additional possibilities for the angler.

Feeders made of metal mesh, wire or galvanized

You must purchase a galvanized mesh from a hardware store. One square meter of such a grid is enough for about 10 feeders, while its cost is minimal.

As a sinker, as in the case of the cheboryukovka (just below, in the section on making a bottle feeder, this method is described), you can use lead plates. But it will be more convenient to cast the sinkers of the desired shape and weight yourself.

Here is the list for making a mesh feeder:

copper wire
galvanized mesh (it is advisable to choose not too soft, with 5x5 cells)
wire cutters
wooden or metal bars of any shape (they will be required to make an even rectangular shape of the case)
pliers (to secure the lead tightly)

Instructions:

first you need to cut small blanks with wire cutters from a large mesh. Rectangles measuring 8cm by 21cm are perfect for creating a rectangular trough body
with any bar we bend the grid into 5 cells, then by 5, another two times by 5, as a result, 3 cells remain
edges overlap each other exactly one cell each
the resulting rectangle is fixed with copper wire. If there was no wire at hand, then fixation can be carried out due to a lead weight, which must hold tight enough
now that we've formed the shape we want, it's time to cast the lead. Lead casting is a simple matter, but it requires accuracy and careful approach. Remember about safety: put on gloves, make sure that the room is well ventilated during the melting process. Clean and dry the mold itself. The most suitable shape will be a flat shape, which will subsequently be easy to bend around the mesh. The budget option is a plaster mold. Using a plaster mold, you can save on buying a store mold, as well as adjust it if necessary
now you need to make a blank sinker made of wood
we knead the gypsum and carefully lower the previously obtained wooden blanks into it. In case of some troubles, you can always work with a chisel by changing the unsuccessful shape
after the operations performed, not quite even edges of the shipments may come out, furrows remain, fortunately all this is easily sanded. It is advisable to make a thickening in the middle part, and the edges will accordingly become thinner, which will provide a high-quality strong bend
the resulting sinker is installed on a pre-prepared grid
remember to attach the feeder to the rig. The swivel and carabiner can be installed both on the finished structure and during the installation process

Spring Feeders

The principle of operation of the feeder: the inner spring is compressed, fixed by top dressing (any easily soluble in water, most often pieces of bread) and thrown into the water.

The trough has 2 holes through which you can push an oblong piece of bread, which will allow the spring to be fixed. After a few minutes, the bait becomes soaked, and the spring is unclenched, throwing the contents out.

When creating such a structure with a spring, you will need:

copper or brass wire
ballpoint pen
pliers or wire cutters
lead sinker
a cylindrical object for winding wire (for example, a bolt)
mono

Wire thickness ranges from 1mm to 3.5mm. To equip the spring, a piece of mono line 0.3mm 50cm long is required.

Manufacturing steps:

the wire is wound on a cylindrical object. Depending on the size chosen, from 7 to 12 turns are made, then the wire is bite off
now you need to achieve a barrel-shaped workpiece. To do this, expand the diameter of the central turns using pliers, and, on the contrary, narrow the outer turns
then a rod from the handle is inserted into the spring
excess wire and rod are bitten off with pliers
sinker is installed

DIY plastic feeder for a feeder

Such feeders are usually created from improvised means, so you do not need to look for and buy materials in stores, because every home has them. The advantage of this option is its cost and ease of manufacture.

Plastic bottle feeder

Another name for a plastic feeder is cheboryukovka. It is called so by the name of its creator in the middle of the 2000s - Igor Cheboryukov. Cheboryukovka is famous for its simple design and ease of manufacture, literally from improvised means.

A number of advantages of such a feeder:

floats well to the surface of the water
the variability of the form and the achievement, thus, of the functional features you personally need (any volume, feed capacity)
ease of manufacture and availability of materials

To create a cheboryukovka you will need:

plastic bottles from which the body of the future device will be made
scissors
stapler or soldering iron
hole punch or soldering iron
lead sinker
pliers or pliers
paper clips

Manufacturing steps:

cut the blanks for the bodies in the form of rectangles from plastic bottles. Namely, cut off the bottom, then make a cut along the straight part of the bottle to the neck and cap of the bottle, or to the narrowing or ribbed part (if the shape is unusual). Leave only the straight part, cut off the rest
on the resulting blanks, outline the required dimensions (length and width), mark with dots the places of future holes
cut the plastic according to the outline
in cases where the feeder is large enough, you can use a hole punch to punch holes
roll the edges of the plastic towards each other, in a cylindrical shape. Staple them or solder them
burn holes with a soldering iron, if required
fix the sinker

On average, sizes range from 4-4.5cm to 5.5-6cm in length and up to 4cm in diameter. In the sweep, the length remains the same, and the width ranges from 11cm to 15cm. Before you start working with scissors, it is recommended to outline the dimensions with a marker directly on the plastic.

The length and width of such plates are selected depending on the required weight of the sinker using a simple formula:

Thickness x Length x Width x 11.34 (specific gravity of lead) = weight, g

Feeder trough made of female curlers

It would seem, how can women's hair curlers come in handy for an angler? The fact is that they make good feeders, because they initially have a suitable shape and the necessary holes for feeding.

It is also worth noting that the size of these feeders is easily adjustable. It is enough to use nippers and the optimum diameter is achieved. Curlers should be chosen from durable plastic that does not have a strong repulsive odor.

DIY cork feeder

Materials:

plastic bottle cap
copper or brass wire
plain paper clip
lead sinker

Manufacturing steps:

cut out pieces of a lead plate with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the plastic plug
4 holes are burned in the cork
pull the wire through the holes made and tighten it firmly
4-5 holes are burned on the sides. Of which 3-4 are needed for leashes with hooks, and 1 for a ring

Homemade feeder feeders from filters of photo printing machines

Such filters are perfect for all parameters of the future design: lightweight and durable plastic, cylindrical shape, mesh structure.

Getting them is easy enough. To do this, you need to contact the photo centers. The fact is that filters wear out and are thrown away, you just need to agree that you will take them for yourself.

Materials:

lead sinker
copper or brass wire
direct filters of photo printing machines

Manufacturing:

a branch with an eyelet is twisted from the wire, which is needed to fasten to the tackle
cut the cylindrical filter into 3 equal parts, this will become the body of the product
we cut lead plates with the required parameters. They are usually 6 to 7 centimeters long and 1 to 2 centimeters wide.
we fix the sinker and wire to the body, bending the edges of the plate

DIY bullet or rocket feeder

They are thrown at distances up to 100 meters, while they are quite accurate (spread about 1 meter), not loud.

Materials:

20 cm piece of polyethylene pipe with a diameter of 5 mm and a wall thickness of 4 mm. High pressure pipes are preferred
a piece of fine-grained foam

Manufacturing steps:

sandpaper we process burrs and pointed edges
in the tube we make 16 holes with a diameter of 1 cm, 4 in a row
using an emery wheel we grind the foam, then we work with sandpaper
super glue a piece of foam with a tube
paint the float with a waterproof color marker, and make holes with a diameter of 5 mm along the edge of the "rocket" body
we pass the rings through the holes through which the slings are passed. The ends of the lines are tied with a carabiner

Feeder "Method" for the feeder with your own hands

Quite a popular and effective feeder model, recognized by many anglers. But at the same time, the description of the manufacture of the Method is practically not available on the Internet, despite its prevalence.

Material:

rubber plug from electrical junction box
plastic disposable glass or small glass
lead plate of the right size
flat head screws
soldering iron

Manufacturing steps:

make a container of the desired shape from the cup. We cut out the bottom, and in its place we fix the rubber stopper. In order for the structure to remain strong, we glue the cork to the glass.
we select the required body length, cut off the excess
we process the edges with sandpaper or sandpaper
cut out 2 circles from the plate, with a diameter slightly less than the diameter of the cup. We put one plate on the bottom, screw the screws into the other so that the bait holds tight

The advantages of the Method are in the relatively large amount of complementary foods, the proximity of the hook to the nozzle. The feeder shows itself both in calm areas of the reservoir, and in areas with a current.

Do-it-yourself floating feeder for a feeder

When fishing in muddy bottoms, this feeder is the best choice. It is also suitable if bottom feeders are ineffective; fish are poorly fed at the bottom.

Materials:

mesh cylindrical body. The material is not so important, a galvanized mesh twisted into a tube and a metal or plastic cylinder, etc. will do.
carabiner
fifty centimeter leash
construction foam
thickened wire rod. It is permissible to use a part of the spoke of a motorcycle wheel
heat-shrink tubing

Manufacturing steps:

lacing one edge of the cylinder crosswise
fix the wire rod
fill the edge with foam
excess foam that has gone beyond the cylinder, remove
coat the foamed part with glue
we paint the foam in a color that stands out against its background
fasten the yoke to the rod. Heat shrink tubing secures the rod tightly for a secure fit
with a carabiner, we fix the clamp with a leash, which then needs to be attached to a 25-centimeter loop from the fishing line

DIY feeding trough for a feeder

This type of feeder is used when you need to quickly feed the fish in a certain area of the reservoir. You need to design a feeding trough yourself, because you can't find it in stores.

Any mesh (plastic or metal) and a sinker with the desired weight are suitable for manufacturing. The shape, like the size, does not matter in our case. It is worth paying attention to bait, it should be easily soluble in water in order to quickly feed the fish.

Do-it-yourself feeder for long-distance casting

Material:

70 cm mono line
plastic tube 8 to 10 centimeters long
a six centimeter and one and a half centimeter piece of heat shrink tubing with a diameter of 2.5 mm and 1.25 mm, respectively
carbine
shock-absorber ball
bead
swivel

Manufacturing process:

on the fishing line we make a one and a half centimeter loop
we tie the ends of the mono with a pigtail
retreat from the knot made 5 centimeters and make another
put on a swivel at the end of the tube
on the opposite end we put a six-centimeter piece of the tube
we attach a bead to the fishing line, a shock-absorbing ball, a horizontally located tube with a swivel
fix the free part of the tube on the swivel
put on a leash
the branch, like the fastener, is attached to the leash and fastener
move the tube to the side of the outlet

Sliding feeder for feeder

It is widely known that different methods can be used to fix the feeder. However, it is preferable to choose a method in which the feeder slides along the main line.

There is also a method with special tubes, in which a carabiner is attached to a swivel for subsequent fixation of the feeder. This option is suitable for beginners, since it is very easy to install, but it will not be considered here, due to some drawbacks in the design.

Consider a more efficient option with a conventional feeder, plastic or metal. The process of attaching the feeder to the main line:

we make a stopper from cambric
we put it on the main line. If there is no desire or opportunity to make a stopper with your own hands, you can always purchase it at any specialized store. You won't notice much difference between them.
then put on the bead
we take a leash (we choose based on what we are catching), on which the feeder is installed. Either with a swivel or through a loop, we attach the leash to the main line. As a result, we get a sliding leash.
we set the limiter. Put on the bead and install a small swivel. Now we will make a leash from a fishing line with a smaller diameter and fix it on a swivel using the loop method

Do-it-yourself shooting feeder "Shotgun" under the feeder

Materials:

film case, which will become the future housing for the feeder
bipolar spring
ball pen

Manufacturing steps:

bend the edges of the spring by 6 mm
remove the gasket from the metal bottle cap and wedge the spring into the cork perpendicularly
then pour molten lead about 6-8 mm thick into the cork. Lead will hold the spring firmly, allowing the piston to move easily inside the housing
now in the center of the piston we make a hole with the same diameter as the rod of a ballpoint pen
install the tube into the spring
melting the edge of the rod on the back of the piston
we clean the tube, since we will stretch the fishing line through it
in the bottom of the container we drill a hole, the diameter of which should be slightly larger than the diameter of the tube
we fix the piston into the container. Make sure that the piston is flush with the end of the container and the tube protrudes 5 mm or more above the container. Remove excess
we press on the piston, because of which the tube will protrude more. After that, we melt the free edge. As a result, the roller is equally distributed over the entire cut of the tube.
now we push the piston all the way into the container
in order for the spring to maintain its compression, we make 2 holes with a diameter of 7 or 8 mm directly in the container from the opposite edges of the piston

DIY flow feeders

Materials:

tin pimples, in the amount of 9 pcs.
copper or brass wire
swivel
lead plate
mesh from a car filter, preferably filters from large cars

Manufacturing:

create the desired mesh shape. How to make it is described above, in the description of making a metal feeder. nets
cut out a rectangular depression in the plank
we make nine holes, the depth of each is 3mm
pass the swivel through the frame, which will be stretched into the net
we put the resulting frame into the recess, then fill it with molten lead

We make a branch for the feeder

Materials:

line, diameter 0.3 - 0.35 mm

Manufacturing:

cut off about 70 centimeters of fishing line
we form a twist from it, leaving a small ring. We lay the line in half and twist the line in different directions with your fingertips
take a twist, pass the double end of the fishing line into the eyelet of the fastener. We tie the fastener with a regular self-tightening knot
tighten the knot tightly, cut off the remaining end of the line
take a swivel and attach it to the twist from the side of the loop. We pass a loop into the eye of the swivel, put it on the swivel, pass the body of the swivel through the loop. Tightening

Feeder trough installation

For a complete installation, we need:

branch under the trough
lead under the leash
fishing tackle

Leash removal materials:

line

Leash making:

we make a twist identical to the twist for withdrawal
at the end of the twist we make a double knot, the so-called stopper knot. We tighten it tightly, cut off the ends

Tackle making:

either monofilament or braided line is used
we string a swivel with a branch under the feeder on the fishing line
put a small silicone stopper on the line
we tie the line to the bend under the leash
cut off the extra antennae

The leash is ready, it remains to attach the feeder and the leash.

We have considered a variety of options for making feeder feeders. The article provides the most optimal and fairly simple methods. The production of your own feeders after a short time will become automatic, you just have to want to.

Thus, you will save a lot, plus you will have something to do on winter evenings. Treat this activity as a hobby in which you can express your creativity.

DIY self-made feeder feeders - instructions, diagrams, video Link to the main publication

Editorial staff
about the project

Do-it-yourself wobbler pick

Anything happens on a fishing trip. Including hooks. If you lose rubber with a jig head as a result of a hook, it is unpleasant, but not “fatal”. But if in the snags there remains a rather expensive, catchy wobbler?

The prospect is not a pleasant one. In order to compete for an expensive, catchy or just favorite bait, you can use such an element of a modern spinning player's equipment as a pick.

Most fishing accessories sellers have factory-made branded cuts in their assortment. But, it can be much more interesting, and even more useful for the angler to do something on his own.

A homemade cut is not difficult. The task of such a device is to somehow grab a wobbler stuck in the snags and pull it out even at the cost of losing the hook.

1. The most popular homemade wobbler cut is a modification of the classic cut, which is a heavy ring with a cut (cut) for the line to pass.

In order to release the wobbler with the help of this cut, it is additionally equipped with several tees.

2. There is also a design in which, instead of a heavy ring, a carabiner is used, which is used by climbers. Several welded long-link chains are attached to the carabiner using a lifting bracket (or several brackets). It is best if the chain links are made of wire with a diameter of 3 mm. And the length of the chain will be about 10 cm.

3. Some anglers use another type of cut-off, where instead of chains, a metal sponge is used, which is used to scrub the burn on the dishes.

The principle of operation of these self-made cuts is identical.

On the fishing line that the wobbler is tied to, we put on a homemade wobbler hook. We lower the cut to the wobbler. Next, we try to hook the wobbler in some other way.

To do this, you can use "tees", and a chain, and a metal sponge. After we have made sure that our favorite wobbler is "on the hook", we try to pull it out, and if we are lucky, together with the snag.

This is how you can save your favorite attachment and save a lot of money. As Scrooge McDuck used to say: "A dollar saved is a dollar earned." Good luck!

Many fishermen know that the May beetle is the most demanded treat for the chub, and for other fish too. The peak of activity of these beetles is in May and the fish at this time awaits them under the branches of trees, where they dump into the water. But throughout the summer, the nibble on this bait also continues actively. Many fishermen simply freeze May beetles for fishing in the summer, but there is an easier way - to make durable spinning lures.

In this instruction, we will look at how you can very simply make a wobbler in the form of a May beetle from scrap materials. As a basis, the author used an ordinary wine cork, which can be collected in places where people rest. All you need is to cut out the desired profile, and also color the bait, and now it looks like a beetle. For more detail, it is recommended to equip this bait with legs like a real beetle. For these purposes, some craftsmen use thin elastic bands from panties that need to be dyed black or brown. They will move in the water and imitate a real beetle. So, let's take a closer look at how to make such a tackle!

Materials and tools used by the author:

List of materials:
- wine bottle cork;
- a piece of plastic for the blade;
- stainless wire 0.8 mm thick;
- hook tee;
- lead for loading;
- Super glue;
- some sawdust;
- nail polish.

Tool list:
- hacksaw blade;
- sandpaper;
- stationery knife.

Bait Making Process:

Step one. Cut out the main profile
The most difficult part of manufacturing can be considered cutting out the profile of the bait. In general, there is nothing complicated here, you just need to be patient and work with a stationery knife. The main thing here is not to rush, the knife is very sharp, and the material is hard. If you gape, you can easily cut your finger or arm.

We will make the profile the same as that of the body of the May beetle. That is, it is wider in the front and narrower in the back. Consider the shape of the beetle's wings. Here it is important to find a picture of a May beetle or even look for a real beetle to see how its body works.

Step two. Grinding
Next, we arm ourselves with sandpaper and carefully process the surface. We need to make all the shapes smooth, grind off sharp corners, and so on. First, you can work with coarse sandpaper, and at the end use fine sandpaper. The cork is polished quite simply, though it quickly clogs the sandpaper.

Step three. Wings
Now we need to cut a line on the back, which will simulate the line of closing the wings. Again, we use a clerical knife as a tool here. You need to work very carefully so as not to get hurt.

Step four. Place for weight
A weight must be installed in the belly of the bait. It will be needed in order for our beetle to stay on the water correctly, that is, belly down, like a real beetle. Just cut the desired hole under the weight with a knife. We select the weight so that it slightly melts the beetle.

Step five. Beetle skeleton
It is important for the beetle to make a "skeleton" to which we will attach the tee. For its manufacture, the author used a stainless wire 0.8 mm thick. We just thread it along the bait and make loops at the ends. Subsequently, a tee is installed in the tail section.

Step six. Installation of a sinker
The sinker can be installed, it is attached with super glue. Pour some sawdust on top of the weight and fill them with glue. Thus, we will mask the weight and additionally fix it. When the glue is dry, simply sand the area with sandpaper.

Finally, the author made cuts on the belly with a hacksaw blade. We will need them in order to imitate the belly of a real beetle. White stripes will be applied here.

Step seven. Blade manufacturing
Since our tackle is a wobbler, we need to make a blade for it. Thanks to this blade, the beetle will make movements to the right and left when guiding, thereby forming waves on the surface. The frequency of movement of the beetle should be high for a better imitation. To make the blade, you need a piece of sheet plastic, the author cut it out of a plastic bottle with scissors. Modifying the blade profile with sandpaper.

To install the paddle, cut a slot in the front of the bait and then glue it in with super glue. Do not forget to cut under the loop in the blade. That's all, technically our bait is ready, all that remains is to paint it.

Step eight. Coloring the bait
To paint the bait, the author used nail polish. Make the belly of the beetle black and the wings brown. Next, you need to apply white stripes and dots on the abdomen, like a real beetle. Be sure to draw the beetle and eyes. The author also drew a black dividing line between the wings with a needle.

After painting the beetle, it is advisable to cover it entirely with transparent varnish to protect the paint.

Spinning. Decoys: all notes, author's notes.

Wobbler. It's hard to imagine how popular it is among spinningists. An ingenious looking and even toy-like fishing lure. But this is only the first and deceptive impression. Gradually, with experience, each spinning player begins to understand how different all these millions of models are produced around the world and how demanding this bait is for the quality of execution and design. Since the time of the first Rapal wobbler, the bait device has changed unrecognizably: the material - from simple wood to soft plastics, the shape - from the simplest to the multi-component and to the smallest details imitating a living object, and technical improvement has long turned a simple bait into a complex fishing device.

But no matter how the manufacturers complicate their brand models and wherever their imagination in design leads them, all the same, with any "sophisticated" factory model, to this day, a hand-made wooden wobbler can compete in catchiness. And even though the store shelves are littered with millions of plastic models of the most varied designs and shapes, hand-assembled balsa “pieces of wood” are still appreciated and craftsmen make them with their own hands and catch them and enjoy both the catch and the manufacturing itself.

And for those who like to tinker, and in particular for those who for the first time decided to make a wobbler with their own hands, I decided to describe the process of the birth of this bait - from designing a blank to the last layer of varnish. And the highlight of my story will be the availability of all materials - in other words, "a wobbler from what is at hand." And no complicated tools and devices. Cheap, simple and cheerful. I will write everything about my specific wobbler, and you will correct the recommendations according to your requirements. So, let's begin.

PROJECT. Since my main goal is the chub, an actively playing bait is required. Focusing on well-known models, the first thing that comes to mind is, of course, L-minnow 44. And why not? Moreover, for a long time I have been looking for a wobbler with the same body shape, only with a greater depth. No problem - copy the L-minnow shape, and make the blade deep-water - long, with a more horizontal position and the front loop extended to the blade. The location of the loop (distance from the nose of the bait) is designed depending on the required diving horizon - the further the loop, the deeper the wobbler will go. We take out the original from the storerooms and proceed to the search for material for the blank.

MATERIAL. The most accessible and easy-to-handle is undoubtedly wood. Which? Of course, the appearance of the tree plays a significant role. But believe me, this is not critical in our case. The only thing I will recommend to you is to make the same wobblers from different types of wood. And in practice, compare how much this factor affects all parameters. Personally, my opinion is that a persistent search for some kind of balsa is simply unjustified - it may be extremely necessary in some cases, but I have not yet presented myself with one. So we go to the balcony to our utility corner, where all kinds of wood trimmings are stored for such a case. I go through the boards and find a slice with the smoothest texture along the cut. The fibers run as parallel as possible and along the cut - this is a guarantee that during processing the wood will not chip somewhere in the unnecessary direction. So much for the material for harvesting - this is pine.

PREPARATION. We outline the outline of the original L-minnow 44, cut it out with a hacksaw and trim it with a knife ...

... finalizing with a file and finishing with sandpaper. The sizes and proportions are slightly different for the three blanks in order to identify the best option later.

We mark with a pencil the slot for the blade, the holes for the lower and rear hinges and the indentations under the eyes (if you put them out).

We poke holes with an awl and drill with a thin drill. We take a stainless (denture) wire and twist three loops. Two identical ones - for tees and one longer - front. The length of the front loop is measured depending on the distance of its extension to the scapula.

Next, the crucial moment is to cut under the blade. Measure a hundred times - drank once. I recommend using a ready-made wobbler with the depth you need and approximately the same body proportions. You can also evaluate the position of the front hinge for the first time. I make three models at once, with different parameters of the blade and the location of the loop - practice will show which design is the most successful. We measure the width of the cut by the thickness of the future blade and carefully and most importantly strictly horizontally perform it using a hacksaw blade for metal or a jigsaw.

Next comes the most important part of the wobbler - the BLADE. It can be made of both metal and plastic. Since I have thin plexiglass at hand, I make it out of it. But for the experiment I made blades from elastic plastic, in order to be able to bend it while fishing, thereby changing the game of the wobbler. The results were very interesting. Useful for learning the wobbler in general. You can also make an experimental one - with a thin paddle made of soft metal and also bend it during fishing. And not even that difficult to manufacture, a wobbler with a replaceable blade, for example, like the Sorcerer model from Halco. And if there is a desire to experiment, then you can also make a variable weight in addition. But this is a completely different story.

So, we outline the outlines of the blade and cut it out with a hacksaw for metal. We process it with a file and cut the slot for the front loop with the same hacksaw.

We adjust the length of the front loop and the width of the cut in the blade to its thickness. I did not twist along the entire length, but left the front part untwisted in order to make the cut as narrow as possible in order not to unduly weaken the blade. With a minimum clearance, the hinge is well fixed in the cut and, being subsequently filled with epoxy resin, holds very well.

We finally adjust all the holes for the hinges and the slot for the scapula, assemble and admire the almost finished wobbler.

Now the second most important part of the wobbler is LOADING. I want to note right away that it is not the weight of the load that is much more important, but its location. Based on the required characteristics in floating properties, we first select the weight. Unfortunately, there is no formula for calculating it and you will have to select the mass by the sample method. To do this, drill holes in the bottom of the wobbler as shown in the photo. You can make them along the entire length, as close to each other as possible, and after adjustment, simply fill in unnecessary holes with plugs from the same wood. The load itself is cylinders made of lead. You can roll them out of sheet metal or carve them out of solid wood.

Before you start testing in the bathroom, be sure to soak the blanks with linseed oil, otherwise the tree will absorb water and all your experiments will go down the drain. We hang tees on the winding rings and try different options for the location and amount of weights in the home reservoir - the bathroom.

If everything suits you, then consider that your wobbler is almost ready. The final operation will be work with epoxy resin. We glue the hinges under the tees, lead weights and the blade with the front hinge.

The last stage remains - PAINTING. The wood impregnation with linseed oil, which we carried out earlier, is one of the stages of protecting the wobbler from water. The next will be a layer of primer, which of course also fulfills its painting role - preparation for paint application. I used a car primer that was left over from the repair of my first Zhiguli. We dip the wobbler into the ground, dry it and repeat again.

We trim the surface with a "zero" skin and proceed to the artistic part. If you have the makings of a painter, then there are no problems - we paint with a brush as your heart desires. But if God has not given you artistic talent, then it is better to use aerosols or a spray. I have been painting wobblers for a long time using auto enamel in aerosol cans.

We set a silver tone with the paint “Snow Queen” or “Nickel”, pollinate the back with black, and the bottom of the wobbler, in my case, golden or orange. This is one of the millions of options - before you an unlimited field for imagination.

Dry and varnish. The most durable and designed specifically for our conditions is yacht varnish. But if not, use any one designed to work in harsh environmental conditions. You can add glitter or some silver to the varnish for beauty. In the end, you can glue convex eyes, which can be easily borrowed from old wobblers that have outlived their days.

Well, that's all - your wobbler is ready to fish. How much more interesting it will be for you to catch fish with the bait in which you have put a piece of your soul, I think it’s not worth talking about. And in general, the very process of inventing your own unique design or model, and the very manufacture of the wobbler, is very exciting. Don't be afraid to experiment and fantasize. Not so long ago I created a wobbler from a completely unusual material - plasticine. And I caught a chub on him! My delight at the first bite is simply beyond words. Believe in yourself and success awaits you. Go for it! Good luck in the workshop and on the pond.

All the details and questions on the manufacture and revision of wobers >>>

Making a wobbler with your own hands is not as difficult as it seems. Any complex pattern consists of simple lines, and a spatula wobbler consists of simple elements: body, shipment, frame with rings for attaching tees, spatula. You can spend time and effort making such a wobbler pursuing several goals.

Saving. Branded wobblers are not cheap. It is not a fact that the "firm" will work better than a wobbler of its own manufacture, made according to the templates of the firm.

Experiment. Checking your best practices, realizing your ideas, using a branded expensive wobbler is not a very rational approach. It is more advisable to spend some effort on homemade products, embodying your ideas from scratch.

Material selection

First of all, you need to decide on the materials and tools for making the bait.

Frame

Wood

alder- solid material;
Linden- hard material, easy to process;
balsa- hard material, the lightest of plant materials, the only species of the bombax subfamily;
Cork- soft material.

Synthetic material

Expanded polystyrene. A type of foam plastic is a soft material;
Pvc- soft material, easy to process.

Scapula (blade)

metal (1-1.5 mm);
plastic polycarbonate (2 mm).

Frame

It is usually made of ferrous wire and serves for the canopy of tees. You can use wire mesh - chain-link with a diameter of 0.4-0.6 mm.

Shipment

hunting shot;
lead pellets;
lead rectangles and cylinders.

paints and varnishes

epoxy resin;
deck varnish;
waterproof glue;
BT-177 silver, bronze, gold (can be mixed with epoxy to form the main color of the wobbler);
waterproof paint for body color.

Instruments

Fine-toothed hacksaw or jigsaw with fine-toothed blade.
Electric or manual drill.
Wood drills of various diameters.
Hammer.
File.
Sandpaper No. 0, No. 1, No. 2.
Pliers.
Needle files.
Vise.

The main stages of manufacturing

The whole process can be broken down into the following steps:

manufacturing of the parts themselves (body, blade, frame);
assembly;
finishing;
tests.

Option 1

primer;
painting the bait;
varnishing.

Option 2

epoxy coating;
painting spinners;
varnishing;
finishing fine processing.

Spade wobbler manufacturing plan

Manufacturing of the case

Wobbler drawing

On hard paper or on aluminum foil, the contours of the bait are applied - the wobbler is outlined with a pencil - side view, top view, corrected according to the ruler and templates. You can make an accurate drawing using a compass bar, patterns, ruler. It is possible to use drawings with the exact dimensions of the case from the Internet.
The outline is cut out.
The contour is transferred to the workpiece No. 1, outlined with a felt-tip pen or marker, additional marking is made with a marker to indicate the points of attachment of the shipment, frame for tees, blades.

It is best to prepare blank number 1 in advance. A bar of the desired thickness from a hard or soft material is cut to the size of a wobbler without a spatula.

Making a rough model

With a fine-toothed saw, a rough model of a spatula is cut along a pre-applied contour from workpiece No. 1 made of hard material (You can use a jigsaw if you have the skill to work with a fine-toothed file).
Using a knife, a rough model of a spatula is cut along a pre-applied contour from workpiece No. 1 made of soft material.
The corners are cut with a knife, processed with coarse sandpaper, then fine sandpaper. Notches in the form of gills, eyes, and other profiles are sharpened with a knife and file.
Smoothed again with zero sandpaper.

Rough model of a wobbler - Blank No. 2 made of solid material, ready for further processing.

Workpiece No. 2 made of soft material is processed as follows:

It is cut in half along the axis with a slight offset to either side. You will get two halves - one slightly thicker, the other thinner.
In the thicker half, channels are cut for the wire framing and recesses are made for shipping. A small rectangle lead shipment that is easy to make with pliers and a hammer works best.
The two halves are processed with fine sandpaper to give the final shape of the wobbler.
Wire frame inserted, shipping.
The two halves are connected, but until the bait passes the test, they do not stick together. The two halves are held together with a thin elastic band or thin wire.
A slot is made in the head of the blade wobbler with a hacksaw at a certain angle to install the blade - scapula. When the spatula is ready, it must be inserted into the slot, and the wobbler will be ready for testing.

Processing workpiece No. 2 from hard material.

The channels are sawn with a fine-toothed saw for the wire frame and for the blade.

There are many options for placing shipment:

Attachment of pellets: in certain places, symmetrically on both sides, on the sides, holes are made with a drill with a deepening slightly larger than the diameter of the spent grain, pellets are inserted, then poured with epoxy resin.
Along the axis of symmetry: on the back or abdomen, in certain places, a hole is made with a drill according to the size of pellets, pellets are inserted, and filled with epoxy resin.
In the material of two halves, in the inner part, in certain places, holes are cut out for grains.
Fastening of lead cylinders. In a solid material in the right place, in the side of the workpiece No. 2, a through hole is drilled for the diameter of a lead or iron cylinder, then a cylinder is inserted.
The placement of rectangular shipments for soft material has been described earlier.

A rattle made of pellets. A hole of the required diameter, larger than the diameter of the balls, is drilled along the axis of symmetry of the wobbler. The balls are inserted into the hole, the hole is plugged with a plug made of wobbler material greased with glue, and covered with epoxy resin. Or like this: a thin-walled metal tube is inserted into the hole (you can pick it up from children's toys or remove it from a brush) in which balls are pre-laid.

There are no clear instructions and recommendations on where and how to arrange the shipment. It all depends on the preferences of the angler. The main thing is to decide what kind of spinner you are preparing according to the degree of buoyancy, according to the game, according to the wiring. In any case, during testing, you can adjust the weight and location of the shipment. Excess holes are plugged with a plug made of the same material as the wobbler, covered with epoxy or glue, processed with a knife and fine sandpaper.

Making a scapula

A spatula of the required size is sawn out or cut out of metal (1-1.5 mm) or plastic polycarbonate (2 mm) along the prepared contour, the edges are processed with a fine sandpaper or file.

Depending on where the main line is supposed to be attached - to the head or to the shoulder blade, a wire frame is prepared. Hinges are made at the points where the tees are attached. If you attach the fishing line to the blade ring, it is recommended, in addition to gluing the blade at the junction with the body, to make it impossible to pull it out of the body, make a through hole in the body and the blade, insert a pin from a thin nail with a cut off head.

A stud slightly larger than the hole should fit snugly into the hole. In this case, the loop on the wire frame is twisted at the location of the stud from the stud. The pin will securely connect the body, wire frame, paddle. When loaded, the blade will not break out of the body of the bait.

The sketch shows that to attach the ring to the blade, it is recommended to make two or three twists in a wire bent in half to form a ring, insert both ends of the wire into the hole of the blade to the ring itself, cut off the excess ends of the wire, straighten it, tightly pressing the antennae to the blade, cover with epoxy , clean up the beads with sandpaper after drying.

Frame

The frame is made of ferrous wire. A wire with a diameter of 0.4-0.6 mm from a mesh-netting used for country fences is suitable. Hinges - rings on a wire frame twist at the points where the tees are attached. In the case of attaching the fishing line to the scapula, the first loop in the front of the frame is made in the same plane as the spoon. A pin - a stud should pass through this loop, so it is made small.

Assembling a wobbler from a solid material

A wire frame with rings is inserted into the channel.
Filled with epoxy resin.
A scapula is inserted. Waterproof adhesive can be applied to both the blade slot in the body and to the blade.
In the case of attaching the line to the scapula, insert the pin in the head section, as described above.
We are waiting for the glue and resin to harden.
We process frozen smudges.

Testing

For testing, a bathtub filled with water will do. The assembled spatula wobbler must be run-in. The fishing line is tied to the spatula or by the head, or by the spatula, stretched in the water.

If the balance, play, buoyancy are satisfactory, then the bait is ready for further processing. If not, you will have to experiment with blade tilt, shipping. Excess holes can either be plugged with a plug with applied glue, or filled with epoxy.

After testing the wobbler made of soft material, we proceed to assembly.

Build bait from soft material

Let's repeat the above:

After testing the bait in a water bath, remove the temporary attachments.
We glue the two halves together.
We are waiting for the glue to dry.
We insert the spatula with the applied glue into the slot.
We are waiting for the glue to dry.
We process glue drips.

Finishing

Extra dents, holes, chips are not a reason to throw away a homemade product. Defects can be covered with epoxy. After the resin has dried, the beads are treated with zero.

Finally, we clean up all defects with sandpaper No. 0.

The enclosure must be in its final form for painting.

Painting options

First

Before painting we prime the body with any white primer enamel.
The main paint is applied, after drying, the selected pattern is added.
After the paint has dried, the deck varnish is applied in several layers.

Second

The workpiece is coated with epoxy resin with the addition of BT-177 paint to give the wobbler the desired base color.

The product is dry and ready to use.

Styrofoam or plastic in the form of an insect

You can make disposable baits in the form of insects, crustaceans, worms. An insect is cut out of polystyrene (plastic), for example, the May beetle, processed with a file, fine sandpaper to give the final shape. Portrait resemblance to the original is optional. For a predatory fish, the main thing is that your work is in motion.

Two-piece foam fish

You can make a soft composite fish from foam rubber. Usually a two-piece fish is made.

At one end of the ferrous wire of the desired length, a loop is made.
From the other, sharp end, the blank of the first half of a soft fish cut from foam rubber is strung along the axis.
A second loop is made.
The wire for the other knee is threaded into the lower loop, the loop is twisted on the second wire.
A foam rubber blank for the tail of the fish is strung onto the wire of the second knee.
The last loop for the tee is made.
The soft foam parts of the fish can be painted, although there is little point in this. It is better to paint over the foam rubber in any color.

Whether or not to hang a tee in the middle is up to the fisherman to decide. Instead of tees, twins or single hooks are sometimes used.

Such a fish is used with a lead sinker installed in front of the fish, or attached when fishing with a diverter. When moving, if done correctly, it will wag its tail and attract predatory fish.

Useful video

Making blade wobblers with your own hands at home can become not only an exciting hobby for the angler, but also save him from significant expenses on the purchase of branded products. It will also allow you to bring ideas and ideas to life. There is no more enjoyable moment for an angler than catching a large fish with a homemade mini wobbler. In addition to the pleasure of a good catch, a person experiences the joy of creative luck.

Knipovich Nikolay Mikhailovich

Zoologist, hydrobiologist. Graduated from Leningrad State University named after Zhdanov, Faculty of Biology and Soil Science. I am fond of fishing at a professional level.